First up was an amuse bouche of carrots that had undergone malolactic(?) fermentation. It was quite wonderful - sauerkraut but without cabbage!
The starter was grilled pumpkin with ricotta and ginger mint with roasted pumpkin seeds. A very meaty dish with just the right amount of richness from the flesh and ricotta that was refreshed by the mint and the roasted seeds.
We didn't have a white with these starters, but we had the Cosimo Maria Masini "Nicole" 2007 which is their unoaked 100% Sangiovese. And it was a fantastic pairing with the pumpkin. A very pure Sangiovese aroma, all cherry and sandalwood and, of course since unaoked, no oak-taint. This is fragrant and sexy like a Pinot Noir. Ripe but lively, crisply tannic, this is a joy to drink now though ideally it should be kept a few years. The brisk structure cut through the richness and meatiness of the pumpkin so that the pairing was greater than the sum of its parts - and even the parts themselves were outstanding.
The main course was pike perch and mussels in a creamy, almondy sauce. It sounds simple, and the tastes were indeed simple and plain - but the structure of the fish was cooked to perfection. I think it is shows the quality of the restaurant to make such a simple, even neutral dish so well.
And another sign of this restaurant's excellence is that they designed a dish so perfect for the Cosimo Maria Masini "Annick" 2010 which is an unoaked blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon - two grapes I usually dislike! Yet the wine is really nice: all minerals and sea shells and lemon on the nose; the Chardonnay's richness shows well but the slight greenness of the Sauvignon complements it well. Here, these grapes don't clash, but co-operate. And it was wonderful how the Chablisesque aspects worked with the mussels yet the richer body worked with the creamy fish. Both the food and the wine had a split personality in a good way!
Dessert was a chocolate almond cake of supreme intensity that the Cosimo Maria Masini Vin Santo "Fedardo" 2004 cut through admirably. This was a dark brown, oxidative style - a style that I really like for Vin Santo. My preference is for Vin Santos with oxidation and just a teasing touch of sweetness; this, however, was VERY sweet. But it was balanced by the acid and the roasted and oxidative notes. Lovely stuff, despite my preferences usually being for something drier.
Great wines in one of the greatest new restaurants in Helsinki with great company and the winery owner and importer present to talk about the wines. What could be better?
L. Cosimo Masini, R. Jarno Malmberg, their importer here