After the arrival of their second child Julia, the Lipner's have been off the wine circuit in the DC area for the past couple of months. This was a chance for Maureen Nelson, Faryan Amir-Ghassemi and I to go over and see how the family is doing. Jen and Ian prepared a four-course meal that was wonderful - something we've become accustomed to with their dinners!
Conversation around the table was great as usual, ranging from public policy debates, to a zombie Muammar Gaddafi Halloween costume. Great times!
First Course
Jen prepared a great salad with pomegranate seeds and a homemade vinaigrette. Loved the little bursts of flavors every time I bit into a seed. Great way to start the evening.
- 2010 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Popped and poured. Definitely a bit tight at first displaying somewhat muted (by Egon's standards) tones of fresh peach and tangerine. Palate opened up with air and with layers of tropical fruit, wet slate and lychee fruit. Hard to say this drinks like a traditional Kabinett as its structure and density remind me more of a Spatlese. A bit cooler and crisper than Muller's 2009 with a hair more energy on the palate. This was drinking the best at the end of the night...will decant my other bottles if I open them soon. (92 pts.) - 2008 Domaine Rémi Jobard Meursault 1er Cru Charmes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Quickly double-decanted this at the suggestion of Peter Weygandt since a lot of sulphur is used by this producer in hopes of preventing premox. By dinner time, the sulphur wasn't noticeable and it had a nice citrus, smokey flint and white florals. Another fine example from Remi Jobard that had depth and complexity on the palate. - 2007 Château Malartic-Lagravière Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Always fun to drink wines that get a mid-90 point score from one critic and a mid-80 point score from another. Interesting nose with noticeable influence from the Sauvignon and oak - featured soft vanilla, a nice grassiness, subtle botrytis notes and a white floral lift. The palate, however, seemed to have more typical semillion characteristics with subtle pineapple, lingering tones of almond skin and a pleasant density. For me, I'm closer to Parker on this one as I wasn't upset with the influence of oak here as Gilman noted in his review. (91 pts.)
Ian presented us with a beautifully broiled chicken and Jen had put together a roasted root vegetable side dish. Great pairing with the Burgundies!
- 1996 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Faryan noted almost immediately the attractive cool pinot fruit profile on the nose here. With the cool fruit, it had subtle mushroom notes with lovely red floral tones. The palate seemed to be in a good place with nice complexity and layers of red fruit, subtle tobacco, sauteed mushrooms and dried red florals. This has a good deal of acidity on the finish, but I think the spicy Vosne fruit combined well it - very nice wine. (91 pts.) - 1999 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
This was decanted earlier in the day and drank alongside the 1996. Noticeably more tannic than the 1996 this was far more primary too. I felt this had a darker fruit profile with lilacs, mushroom, and tilled soil. The palate was young and firm but had very intriguing underlying tones of mushroom, dark fruit, baking spices and pipe tobacco. Should be a wonderful bottle to watch and once its tannins soften it'll be a top notch Pinot. (90 pts.)
Ian walked into the dining room with what looked like a Flintstone-sized leg of lamb. Incredibly exciting sight! Accompanying the lamb was a pea salad that had incredible fresh herbs mixed with peas. Loved the peas...could have eaten pounds of them!
- 1985 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
A truly great bottle of La Chapelle. Exhibited classic mature Northern Rhone syrah meat, earth, and dark fruit flavors. While the meatiness and was dense and in-your-face, this still had really elegant dark fruit at its core. The palate was remarkably elegant and this was my clear WOTN. I've had mixed results with bottle variation with older La Chappelle's, so it was so great to come across this bottle...seemed to me to be drinking at its zenith. Thanks Ian for opening this! (94 pts.)
Jen put together a wonderful roasted pear dish. Coated with some vanilla and spices they were accompanied by home made creme fraiche. Great way to end a great night.
- 1995 Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Quarts de Chaume
Waxy nose of almond, apricot, white florals and subtle lychee. Thought there might have been some heat damage along the way as the palate featured stewed flavors...nothing resembling what QdC usually become with age.