WTN: France, Italy, Spain, US, Ukraine-I host SOBER

I thought I had a perfect night picked to host SOBER (because with City Opera in limbo Betsy was free to cook), but after it was scheduled (a) she agreed to cook 3 dutch ovens worth of coq au vin for a friend's 60th tongiht, (b) she got an ACO gig that she's enjoying, except she's had rehearsals in city all week, and (c) I had to reschedule a talk leaving me with a tight daytime schedule. So as 7 PM approached things got a bit hectic in our kitchen, But we (mostly she) managed to get dinner on table pretty much on schedule

We had cheeses, boar salami, pate, and white anchovies on table. The greeting bubblies weren't blind.

1996 Gosset "Celebris" Brut Champagne
Surprisingly, this seems quite mature. Toasty, nutty, lots of apple pie (Mark said cider). If this is a correct bottle I didn't love this. B-

NV Tissot "Indigene" Cremant de Jura
After trying this a month or two back, I was sad to see it was gone from stock at CSW, then delighted when it returned. Floral, baked apple (but with a freshness missing from the Gosset), nice length, complex. I did love this. A-/B+

We then moved to the blind flights. I also enjoy being the one in the know.

Red Flight #1
1996 Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny
One erroneous Rhone guess, then group got Burg. Someone got Chambolle quickly. Guesses were mostly older, the fruit here could have used more freshness, though there was still acidic and tannic structure to suggest it needed more time. B/B-

1999 Littorai "Hirsch" Pinot Noir
Group realized Pinot, but Burg and Oregon were guessed before California.John got Littorai fairly fast. Ripe but with a sense of balance, excellent length, a fine Cali PN. B++

White Flight (with spinach-tofu Napoleans, tasty dish, though the match wasn't great due to the ginger- this is a fave dish, but sparkling Chenin and just off-dry Riesling have worked better).

1993 Sauzet "La Garenne "Puligny-Montrachet 1er
This was a beautiful very pale gold as I decanted, but as I walked upstairs I could actually see the color darken. I thought this was totally shot due to nose, but then didn't open backup because I actually thought it much better on palate (some at table agreed, others didn't ). I thought it showed as a decent example of 38 year old white Burg (at 18). B-/C+

2000 Rene/Vincent Dauvissat "La Forest" Chablis 1er
John nailed "Dauvissat" and "Forest" right off bat, but took him a couple of guesses to get vintage. Lovely, drinking beautifully, green apple and citrus zest with just a faint hint of vanilla. A-

Red Flight #2
1996 Drouhin-Laroze Bonnes Mares
With a couple hours air this was drinking nicely. Group quickly got CdNuits, Mark got Chambolle, John got Bonnes Mares. He then said Drouhin, and I had fun saying "not Joseph Drouhin." Forward and open for the vintage, ripe red fruits, a bit of oak, a little meaty edge. B+/A-

1998 d'Angerville "Caillerets" Volnay 1er
I was a bit surprised/disappointed with this, which showed stiff and surprisingly a bit oaky. Dan did nail d'Angerville quickly. I will put away others and hope for a better showing. B-/C+


Red Flight #3
1979 Gaja "Costa Russi" Barbaresco
Terrible crumbly cork, smelled DOA at first. But before I opened the backup bottle I took a sip (about 10 minutes after decanting), and fruit was roaring back, was fine by dinner. This took a while for folks to get- Northern Rhone were initial guesses, and I could see why. Red fruit, smoke, meat, and earth. I did like this quite a lot. B+

1983 Pepe Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
These are always variable, but I liked this bottle. Volatile, but complex and interesting, with forest floor and animal notes. Others liked less. B+/B

Main course was brisket carbonnade, with mashed potatoes and slivered snow peas.

Red Flight #4
1978 Marques de Murrieta "Ygay" Rioja Gran Reserva
Stone cold dead. D

1970 Lopez de Heredia "Tondonia" Rioja Gran Reserva
John nailed quickly. Red fruits, orange zest, leather, and cured meats. Nice bottle showing well (thanks for trade, Matt!). A-

1970 Cappelano Barolo
Replacement for the Ygay, not blind. Could have used more air, but nice bottle of mature Barolo. B+

Red Flight #5
1974 Charles Krug Vintage Selection
This also showed poorly/dead, too bad as it can be a very good wine. D

1983 Ch. Pichon Lalande
Opinions varied, but I loved this. Everyone got Bordeaux, but most thought RB at first. Juicy, smooth-textured, black currants with tobacco leaf. A-

1983 Phelps "Eisele" Cabernet Sauvignon
Replacement for the old Krug. This is a lovely and classic bottle of Cal Cab, minty/eucalyptus notes abounding, over a solid and young base of cassis fruit. Group immediately got CalCab, though first guesses were in 70s and they flailed for producer. A-/B+

1936 Massandra "Madeira" (Crimea)
OK, so I wanted to do something different (other than serve SOBER tofu), figured we'd never had a Soviet wine. Plain label on cellophane, incredibly short cork under wax. Opened well in advance, a little musty at first, but then sweet raisiny notes. So I bring upstairs- folks thought from color I was blinding them on whiskey. Toffee, fig, not really that sweet, smoke, earth, spce. The 17+% abv shows on finish. Dan says Madeira, I respond it's not from Portugal
Fun and different wine. B+

Fun night for me.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

Wow, what a wonderfully varied collection of wines! I'm very jealous you have access to such aged wines. This 'reads' like an incredible tasting, thanks for writing it up.

Great notes! Wow you guys are good at nailing blind wines.

Glad you liked the 1970 Tondonia. That's a great wine. I'll let you know how the '73 fares in another 2 years!

[Jenise]

Great notes. Question about the Littorai--in spite of my efforts to taste everything as many times as possible, I have had but one experience with Littorai in my whole life--a bottle Bob and I ordered in a restaurant. It was excellent, but what your note has me wondering is if Littorai is actually that distinct and nailable? Or does John just know your cellar.

[Jenise]

Great notes. Question about the Littorai--in spite of my efforts to taste everything as many times as possible, I have had but one experience with Littorai in my whole life--a young bottle Bob and I ordered in a restaurant. It was excellent, but what your note has me wondering is if aged Littorai is actually that distinct and nailable, or does John just know your cellar?

Wow you guys are good at nailing blind wines.

Average is much better when I'm not guessing.
It helps that 3 people basically taste professionally. And add in varied areas of concentration (Tim is an amateur, but has very large Italian collection, for instance).

Jenise, doubt John knew I had Littorai. But he tasted a bunch recently as part of a feature he did on non-spoofy California, and it was probably less uniqueness than a short list of CA PN producers he likes and process of elimination (I think he guessed Swan, then Craig guessed Rhys, and then he guessed Littorai).

I've been pretty blown away by the '80's Phelps cabs I've had, Insignias and Eiseles. Never had the '83 though, sounds like it is just as good.

[David M. Bueker]

Loving the sound of that '70 LdH. Don't have anything quite that old in the cellar right now, but some slightly younger bottles are sleeping their way to old age.