WTN - A Tale of Two 2002 Savennieres

I had two savennieres, one of my favourite wines, from the 2002 vintage, one of my favourite vintages, last night. The two couldn't have been more different. The first listed below had a grassy note I've never experienced before, and was definitely more acidic, picked earlier, and wasn't nearly as focused, concentrated or complex as the second wine. The Chambourceau was my second or third bottle of this wine, and it was absolutely fantastic, one of the best wines I've had for quite a while. A true 'wow' wine. It coated the palate, was a kaleidescope of flavours, and had incredible power and focus (and not a hint of oxidation). 'Cuvee d'Avant' refers to a later picking date, I think, but this wasn't off-dry in any way. I have one or two left, and it will be hard to not pull the cork soon, but thinking about how it will be in a few years may keep the corkscrew away...

• 2002 Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos de Saint Yves - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières (10/16/2011)
  Hazy notes from last night. This paled in comparison to the other savennieres we had last night. There was a grassy, acidic note that wasn't all that flattering. Once you got past that taste in the front palate, more normal chenin flavours did appear in the medium bodied palate. Although this is a low level Baumard wine, I do think it could last a while yet. (B/B+)
  
• 2002 Château de Chamboureau Savennières Roche aux Moines Cuvée d'Avant - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières Roche aux Moines (10/15/2011)
  Light gold in colour. Not too much on the nose, but there is some classic chenin notes of minerals and wet wool and a 'rotten fruit' aroma. But this wine explodes on the full bodied palate, and absolutely coats the mouth with incredible, concentrated flavours of minerality, wool, pears, earth, iron, pineapple and a bunch of other funky flavours. 'Funky' is the operative word here, as any self-respecting savennieres should be. This is a classic savennieres, and just starting to come into its own. I admit I'm a sucker for these wines, but this was indeed a 'wow' wine for me - outstanding! I wish I had cases of this stuff. (A/A+)

I too am a fan of this Chamboureau 2002 and still have some bottles in my cellar bought at the very friendly price of €10. The estate has since changed hands. Here is what I wrote about that a couple of years ago in case anyone missed it.

I cannot recall whether the fate of this estate has been reported on this board. Soulez sold out to the Angers telecommunications businessman, Philip Fournier, as did the well regarded Jo Pithon. Initially Pithon was to manage the joint estate, which was good news, but Fournier called in a consultant from Bordeaux, Stéphane Derenoncourt, and Pithon has walked out or was pushed - http://www.thewinedoctor.com/weekend/jo ... ot05.shtml . I feel great misgivings about Bordeaux methods being brought to the Loire valley and I hope that the results will be less homogenising that first impressions of a similar injection of Bordelais “expertise” into the Jaboulet firm in the Rhône valley. One thing is fairly certain; there will be no more availability of fine cuvées at €10.

Wow, you got a great price on that wine. I too am less than optimistic about the introduction of Bordelais ideas in the Loire.

Hi John -

Thank you for the great notes. Don't recall ever seeing the Baumard Clos du St. Yves. As far as Jo Pithon, my only experiences with his wines were a couple of half bottles of 1999 Coteaux du Layons that I had a few years ago, when a local retailer was selling them for $10 each. Pithon now co-runs the Loire négociant Pithon-Paille, but I have never seen anything from that label.

As far as Fournier, I have a 2007 Sancerre that I'll probably open later this year.

Apropos Baumard, here's my note on a 1996 Clos du Papillon I drank over the last two nights:

A very remarkable bottle, dark yellow-orange, yeasty, almost madeirized on the nose. The fruit has a kind of faded flower quality to it, and a slight yeatiness, so the initial reaction is that the wine is over the hill. But then the acidity hits you, fine, vibrant, incredibly intense; it enlivens the other flavors, gives them lift, and makes for en extremely interesting glass of wine. Good with food, good on its own, but not those seeking the comfort of the familiar. Sadly my last bottle.

The second half of the bottle, sealed in a 375 bottle on opening, was as good the second night. Don't drink too cold. To those who say Baumard Savennieres doesn't age, I say phooey.

John, is the 2002 Yves bottled under screwcap? I have the 2005, which is, and is more recognizably Savennieres, with wet wool and slight oxidative notes. That Chamboureau sounds nice, especially for a $15 wine.

The bottle I had (actually, a half bottle) was under cork. It's probably screwcapped now, but I've only seen the 2002 under cork. The Chamboureau was a $40 CAD wine when I bought it, so the 10 Euro price was, I imagine, a close out price.