WTN: 2005 François Chidaine Vouvray Le Bouchet

[David M. Bueker]

This seems to be fairly mature; odd for a wine that is only 6 years old. It is rather tasty though, and since most of what is in my cellar needs years of aging, I won't look a gift Chenin Blanc in the mouth. There's certainly plenty of that Chenin wooliness, and it retains a ripe pear core of fruit. There's not a ton of acid, but it's sufficient to balance the low level of sweetness, and the inner mouth richness is pretty good - though it falls off a bit on the shortish finish. Overall an enjoyable, if not riveting drink

Hi David -

Thank you for the interesting note. I like Chidaine's wines, but am not at all familiar with this bottling. Is Le Bouchet a single vineyard, or some other proprietary designation?

I'm pretty sure it's a vineyard. I think I've also seen a Le Bouchet from Fouquet.

[David M. Bueker]

Indeed it is a vineyard that he acquired in the early 2000s IIRC.

I bought Chidain's Bouchet and Habert in 08 - hoping for more than six years of development. Do you have a favorite bottling?

This was part of Poniatowski's holdings.

I bought Chidain's Bouchet and Habert in 08 - hoping for more than six years of development. Do you have a favorite bottling?

Fitzi, both of those wines are OTT wonderful. The Clos Habert gets my preference by a nod, but I've got quite a bit of the Le Bouchet, too. Given their balance, I foresee years yet ahead of them and we'll have to see if they shut down in the way that many Chenins do.

Mark Lipton

[David M. Bueker]

I am primarily a fan of the Tuffeaux & Bournais bottlings. I don't know the others well enough to have formed afinal opinion.

I bought Chidain's Bouchet and Habert in 08 - hoping for more than six years of development. Do you have a favorite bottling?

Fitzi, both of those wines are OTT wonderful. The Clos Habert gets my preference by a nod, but I've got quite a bit of the Le Bouchet, too. Given their balance, I foresee years yet ahead of them and we'll have to see if they shut down in the way that many Chenins do.

Mark Lipton

You're talking 2008?

You're talking 2008?

Yep.

Mark Lipton

I bought Chidain's Bouchet and Habert in 08 - hoping for more than six years of development. Do you have a favorite bottling?

Fitzi, both of those wines are OTT wonderful. The Clos Habert gets my preference by a nod, but I've got quite a bit of the Le Bouchet, too. Given their balance, I foresee years yet ahead of them and we'll have to see if they shut down in the way that many Chenins do.

Mark Lipton

Jeez, Mark, you're everywhere.

That was roughly my feeling. I buy Chidaine and Huet, essentially, as a component of my retirement plan [;)] and so am alarmed to read of them peaking at just a few years. I guess the Chidaine wines do not have the track record Huet's do for long aging; we are still learning about them. Of course, the downside (drinking them young) is no catastrophe. Myself, at the moment, I'm contemplating an extended dalliance with the Argiles.

Sadly, the IRS does not apply deferred compensation status to this class of retirement savings, but at least you don't get taxed on the dividends - sort of like the Roth IRA.

I've found a big difference in Chidaine's 05s and 08s in terms of balance and quality - the other 05 Chidaines I had came across a little too ripe and at times alcoholic, and David's less-than-enthusiastic note doesn't shock me.

OTOH I think his 2008s are tremendous and expect them to age very well, esp. the Le Bouchet Vouvray. My only issue with that is I've already opened both the mags I bought plus the majority of the 750s... that was irresistible upon release.

Sadly, I've mostly 2005 in the cellar.

I wondered who got all the Bouchet mags.

One was opened at the Bob Ross jeeb.

Well, I redeemed myself by scarfing up a couple of the 08 Huet le Mont demi-sec mags while Crush still had them.

Cheers.

I liked the 08 Bouchet at the Rossathon. But that's only Bouchet I've had.
A couple thoughts. First of all, it's certainly possible that Chidaine has improved the vineyard since taking over the Prince P holdings (2003?). So maybe the 05 was just mediocre. But I'd note while David's bottle doesn't sound classically closed down, 6 years old is typically about the worst time to judge a Chenin built for the long haul (assuming the Bouchet is, I've got much longer experience with Chidaine's Montlouises of course). As to the 2005s in general, while it is a ripe vintage, it is a ripe vintage in the mold of 2002, 1997, 1990, 1989 in middle Loire. For me that's not a problem.
Salil, which did you find alcoholic? I've had Tuffeaux, Argiles, Habert and thought them all balanced.

Well, I redeemed myself by scarfing up a couple of the 08 Huet le Mont demi-sec mags while Crush still had them.

Cheers.

Let me get this straight: you want to know who scarfed about the mags and it was you?

Thought the Tuffeaux was solid (not spectacular, but nothing to complain about).

Had a bottle of the 05 Clos Baudoin Sec not too long ago (shared with David B. during the summer) where I found the alcohol too stiff. Looking on CT, I noticed a couple of other trusted tasters (Keith L. and VLM) had similar impressions re. alcohol.

Hmm, so maybe it's a question of the Vouvray sites (all Prince P, I think?) vs the Montlouis. Which could be inherent terroir issues (too much sun?), Chidaine's lack of familiarity with sites, or possibly lingering care issues. I must say that despite it's fame the Baudoin site has historically produced a lot of mediocre (in classic sense, just middle of the road) juice.

Well, I redeemed myself by scarfing up a couple of the 08 Huet le Mont demi-sec mags while Crush still had them.

Cheers.

Let me get this straight: you want to know who scarfed about the mags and it was you?

Salil got some Chidaine Bouchet magnums, which were a rarity; I got some Huet magnums (same region, different producer), also a rarity.

I should not try to make jokes, even small ones.

Hmm, so maybe it's a question of the Vouvray sites (all Prince P, I think?) vs the Montlouis. Which could be inherent terroir issues (too much sun?), Chidaine's lack of familiarity with sites, or possibly lingering care issues. I must say that despite it's fame the Baudoin site has historically produced a lot of mediocre (in classic sense, just middle of the road) juice.

Chidaine worked the vineyards for several years before purchase if I recall correctly. Maybe they were just tough years.

Well, I redeemed myself by scarfing up a couple of the 08 Huet le Mont demi-sec mags while Crush still had them.

Cheers.

Let me get this straight: you want to know who scarfed about the mags and it was you?

Salil got some Chidaine Bouchet magnums, which were a rarity; I got some Huet magnums (same region, different producer), also a rarity.

I should not try to make jokes, even small ones.

I misread it, jest away. Not sure how I missed Huet in your post.

Hmm, so maybe it's a question of the Vouvray sites (all Prince P, I think?) vs the Montlouis. Which could be inherent terroir issues (too much sun?), Chidaine's lack of familiarity with sites, or possibly lingering care issues. I must say that despite it's fame the Baudoin site has historically produced a lot of mediocre (in classic sense, just middle of the road) juice.

Chidaine took over the vineyards in 2002 via lease and later purchase.