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WTN: Two Exciting Wines From Recanati, Israel

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ChaimShraga

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WTN: Two Exciting Wines From Recanati, Israel

by ChaimShraga » Wed Oct 05, 2011 2:55 pm

Look, I'm just not usually this patriotic, but I'm posting on this side of the forum because these two wines would interest any wine geek and they really excited me. I'm not sure how easy it would be to find them, though, if you don't usually shop the more kosher-minded venues.

The context was a vertical tasting of the flagship wine, the Recanati Special Reserve. The first few wines, made by the previous winemaker, Lewis Pasco, were fairly dying out, the 2007 and especially the 2008 were good stuff. But then Gil Schatzberg and Ido lewinsohn unleashed two wines supposedly from the lower rungs, and they turned out, to me, to be the real stars. They're priced a bit lower but that's just out good luck. Whereas the SR weighed in at 14% ABV (according to Ido, that's a product of the SR being heavy on the Bordeaux grapes and they turn out too green if they're harvested at lower brix in Israel's climate), these two were very fresh at 13%.

The notes are an excerpt from my full notes of the tasting.

Syrah/Viognier Reserve, 2009

Ooh, I like this even more than the SRs! So much so that I actually found it hard to return to the SR 2008. Focused meat and pepper stink on the nose. Meaty, savory tannins. Pays hommage to the North Rhone (think Cornas with the immediacy of Saint Joseph) while bringing a lot of Israel to the table (sun drenched fruit). It's a tough call between this and the Carignan: I think this has better focus and versatility, yet the Carignan lays out a course that is more interesting and, well, wilder. Both are true gems and worth a look even if you're non-Israeli.

Wild Carignan Reserve, 2009

Obviously Carignan, with characteristic (AFAIK) sweetness of the grape, yet with a meaty edge on both nose and palate. It has this sweaty tint on the nose, with underlying minerals. Lovely saline finish. If all Israeli wines were like this and the Syrah/Viognier, I'd be drinking more of them. And both wines sport lovely labels.
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Re: WTN: Two Exciting Wines From Recanati, Israel

by Mike_F » Wed Oct 05, 2011 3:14 pm

Chaim,

Are you well?

The last time you were this effusive about Israel RED wines, hell froze over...

I guess I will have to seek them out.

cheers,

Mike
Of course we must be open-minded, but not so open-minded that our brains drop out.”
Richard Dawkins
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Re: WTN: Two Exciting Wines From Recanati, Israel

by Kelly Young » Wed Oct 05, 2011 3:15 pm

You had me at "meat and pepper stink".

BTW it looks like this stuff is available in the US (and cheap to boot). I'll have to see in anyone local has it.
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Re: WTN: Two Exciting Wines From Recanati, Israel

by ChaimShraga » Wed Oct 05, 2011 3:34 pm

Damn it, Mike, did hell freeze over while I was catching up one Game Of Thrones?
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Re: WTN: Two Exciting Wines From Recanati, Israel

by Or Shoham » Wed Oct 05, 2011 5:36 pm

I have not tried the Syrah/Viognier Reserve, but I can wholeheartedly recommend the Carignan, which I have tried on two occasions and purchased for cellaring.

For those interested in trying either, please note that these are both limited-edition wines - the Syrah/Viognier Reserve a tad under 3,000 bottles, and the Carignan about 6,000 - so grab 'em if you want 'em.
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Re: WTN: Two Exciting Wines From Recanati, Israel

by ChaimShraga » Wed Oct 05, 2011 5:53 pm

I kind of skirted around the question of cellaring - but don't. I mean, they'll keep for a few years but why wait, they're really groovy now.
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Re: WTN: Two Exciting Wines From Recanati, Israel

by Or Shoham » Wed Oct 05, 2011 8:07 pm

ChaimShraga wrote:I kind of skirted around the question of cellaring - but don't. I mean, they'll keep for a few years but why wait, they're really groovy now.

Consider this my vote-of-no-confidence for what will likely come out of the 2010 grapes - I want a handful of bottles to be able to put to use at least until the 2011 comes out in a couple of years. :)
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Re: WTN: Two Exciting Wines From Recanati, Israel

by Eli R » Thu Oct 06, 2011 2:33 pm

Chaim,

1. Thank you for posting. This is somthing to share, and coming from you, people will pay attention as Mike noted.
2. Confession 1: I attended the vertical tasting and was pushing for it to share my view of how Recanati has completely changed its style as of 2008.

3. Confession 2: The SR 2008 and the Syrah 2009 were no surprise to me as I had the opportunity to barrel taste both wines.

4. I totally agree with your WTN. I believe (and so hope) that the SR 2003-2005 are not dying, but for sure are over the peak and will not improve.
Expect bottle variation, as even the wines brought from the winery were not the best samples - as Gil noted.
Following the disappointment with the 2005, I opened one during the holiday and it was a little better - less bitter on the finish.

Eli

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