NYTimes: Asimov On Structure...

Eric Asimov has a very good article today in the NYTimes on structure in wine:
AsimovOnStructure

He was tasting a bunch of NewZealand PinotNoirs and was finding a certain sameness and lack of structure to them...they were borrrring. One of the things I find a lot in many wines these days. One of the things I don't often find in natural wines (however you choose to define them).
Anyway, Eric digresses onto a tangent w/ some very good points on structure in wine and lack of place. A very good read with which I find a lot to agree with.
Tom

One of the things I don't often find in natural wines (however you choose to define them).

Well the low sulfur natural wine crowd in France often uses carbonic maceration which reduces structure and makes the wines tasting pretty darn similar across terroir/grape.

I don’t think I would say that carbonic maceration fermentation reduces structure; it just produces a different structure “profile” than a “full-crush” pulp (must) alcoholic fermentation.
Some might find the following link interesting;
http://palatepress.com/2010/11/wine/car ... f-nouveau/

Salute