2009 van Volxem Wawerner Goldberg Riesling Erste Lage
Not having had anything from van Volxem before, I was excited to try this. I’m glad to see that it lives up to the hype.
High-pitched floral, peach, slate, herbal, and lemon-pepper nose. Medium to full-bodied, lightly sweet, though clearly beyond halbtrocken, feinherb, or even off-dry. Rich and concentrated, though well balanced, with good underlying acidity. Definitely a different style from the Saar norm, and I can see why not everybody likes these wines. Shows a cool, refreshing minerality on the palate, along with pear, peach, herbal, and mint notes. Finishes with notes of prickly spices and watermelon rind. Excellent. Too bad that van Volxem is not currently distributed in Massachusetts, or I would buy more.
2009 A.J. Adam Riesling QbA Feinherb Hofberg
Big earthy/peachy nose. Full, slightly off-dry, with good underlying acidity on the palate, although the finish is a bit tart for now. Very mineral, with stone fruit, apple, and lightly spicy/herbal flavors. Very good, although not quite as good at this point as the excellent 2008 version that I had early last year.
2009 A.J. Adam Dhron Hofberger Riesling Kabinett
Medium-bodied, silky, elegant, well balanced, with citrus, apple, and mineral notes. Very good, though getting a bit pricy at $32.
2007 Grans-Fassian Piesporter Riesling Kabinett
Medium-bodied, elegant, lightly sweet, lightly sherbety, with lime, apple, and mineral notes. Good/very good.
2003 Franz Künstler Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Spätlese
Moderate petrol on the nose. Combines the ripeness of the 2003 vintage with the relative corpulence of Hochheim Riesling. Moderately sweet with just enough acidity to make it work well. Although a bit closed at first, it opens up to reveal notes of honey, apples, pears, minerals, flowers, and baking spices. Very good, even if I think that dry Riesling is Künstler’s real strength.
1996 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Auction
From 375 ml bottle; AP #13. Delicate, botrytis-tinged, tropical fruit and mineral nose. Viscous, sweet, and precise; still very fresh, with vibrant acidity, and a strong mineral core. Certainly is a step up in power and length from your standard GKA. Tastes of tropical and citrus fruits, peaches, cherries, and ginger. Some whipped cream and spice notes on the finish. Excellent/outstanding.

