WTN: Outstanding Silvaner

2009 Odinstal 350 N.N. Silvaner Trocken –Pfalz, Germany 11,5% alc.

Jesus. Now that is an impressive bottle of Silvaner.

The Odinstal winery is located up the hill and into the forest from Wachenheim and at 350 meteres above sea level, it is one of the highest vineyards in the Pfalz. Biodynamic farming, ultra-low yields, and meticulous selection produce wines of extraordinary concentration. 2500 total case production (mixed between Riesling, Silvaner, Gewürztraminer, Weißburgunder, and Auxerrois.) The Hensel family has owned this historic property since 1998 and with the help of Hans Gunter-Schwarz have turned it into one of the more ambitious (small-scale) wineries in the Pfalz.

I’m a bit of a Silvaner fanatic and this is as good as any that I’ve ever tasted from the Pfalz –though in a completely different style than the norm, and while it may not match the top Franken wines for mineral and finesse, it is nevertheless outstanding.

If there was ever a dead ringer for Savennieres, this is it. I'm not kidding. Lime, apple, wool, sea-spray, camembert. More firm than fat, and dense. Not lacking in acidity, but rounder. Dry and amazingly under 12% alc. The scary part is that there is yet a higher-end Silvaner in the line-up.

Cheers,
Bill

Hi Bill -
Thank you for the very interesting note. Although I love Franken Silvaner, I have yet to try a compelling example from the Pfalz - most likely because the only Pfalz Silvaner around here is the Villa Wolf bottling from JL Wolf.

Just wondering - what is the name of the specific vineyard/parcel that these grapes are sourced from, since you mentioned its elevation?

Hi Andrew,

It comes from the Wachenheimer Odinstal. Yes, the shame is that most Silvaner in the Pfalz is not planted to great vineyards -though a few are. There are some pockets of Muschelkalk in the Pfalz like the Kalmit which produces excellent Silvaner, but most are merely pleasant. Franken takes the grape much more seriously (Rheinhessen too), but the grape is on the come-back trail all over Germany.

Cheers,
Bill