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WTN: Mostly Bdx at La Sirene

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Mostly Bdx at La Sirene

by Dale Williams » Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:22 am

With stirfried tofu and spicy eggplant, the 2007 Willi Schaefer Graccher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett #7. Nice interplay of sweetness and acids. Yes, this should age, and maybe it was a tad mute at first,but if closed it opened nicely- more like blossomed. Fresh green apple, apple blossoms, slate, ginger. Classic Willi S- light, nervy, crystalline goodness. A-

Our old friend Arv was in town, we descended on La Sirene to greet him and Jenn. Betsy and I were late (a combination of traffic and a stop at Chelsea Wine Storage), but the Californians and Ramon and Marina were gracious about it. A really pleasant night- I really liked my chevre tart and Betsy's octopus, my hanger steak was fine and Betsy's cassoulet tasty (she knew it a bit unusual for a warm night, but craved it). An old college friend of Arv's joined us partway through. Nice lineup of wines.

2009 Pascal Cotat "Les Monts Damnes" Sancerre
Ripe, full, with citrus and tropical fruits. But dancing in and out of my range of perception is a hint of damp cardboard. I go back and forth, but eventually conclude this is mildly corked (don't think anyone else agreed).

1998 Closel (Ch.des Vaults) "Clos du Papillon" Savennieres
Young, vibrant, dry, waxy. Nice dry Chenin. B+

1986 Tertre Roteboeuf
Some solid dark fruit, but just a hint of turning pruney. Low acids, still some slightly raspy tannins. B-

1989 Magdelaine
Double-decanted about 3 PM. Full, long, black cherry and plum fruit, hint of cigarbox, dense but agile, good acids, fine tannins, nice length. Could use some more time, but tied for my WOTN. A-

1988 Pape Clement
I approach this with a little trepidation recalling a brettbomb (actually great impression of a sewage plant) a few years ago, but this isn't bretty at all. A bit stern, but typical Graves notes of tobacco and gravel over some solid black fruit. Like most '88s, don't this is ever going to top the elegance charts, but a nice bottle of muscular Bordeaux. B+

1997 Jamet Cote-Rotie
I really don't know much about '97 in northern Rhone. but this is absolutely lovely, very classically styled. Big ripe red fruit, bacon fat, herbs. Nice length. Drinking well. Tie for WOTN, A-

2002 Rauzan Segla
Dark fruit, lead pencil, moderate tannins. Not bad, but not exciting. B/B-

2005 Zind-Humbrecht "Rotenberg" Pinot Gris Selection de Grains Nobles
(375 ml)

I bought this mainly because of a charity tie-in, but I'm pretty impressed. Dense, thick, sweet, but more acidity than I might expect from ZH keeps it from being cloying. Apricot, superripe peaches,.honied botrytis flavors. Doesn't take much! A-/B+

Good night with good people.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency
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Salil

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Re: WTN: Mostly Bdx at La Sirene

by Salil » Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:30 am

Nice wines and notes as always. I really should keep an eye out for some Magdaleine - that 89 and the 82 you'd described in another thread both sound fantastic.

Nice to see a positive note on 88 Pape Clement; have a few bottlings arriving soon that I'm looking forward to opening.

As for 97 in the N. Rhone, I've not heard many good or bad things about it - it seems to be one of those vintages that's generally ignored, though not panned. But I've had some really great 97s like Noel Verset's Cornas and a Guigal La Mouline recently.
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ChaimShraga

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Re: WTN: Mostly Bdx at La Sirene

by ChaimShraga » Thu Sep 15, 2011 6:04 pm

Happens I had the 97 Jamet a couple of years ago and the nose was to kill for.
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R Cabrera

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Re: WTN: Mostly Bdx at La Sirene

by R Cabrera » Thu Sep 15, 2011 8:33 pm

I totally agree about the ‘89 Magdelaine (slightly outperforming the already-good 1989 we had during an ’89 horizontal 2 years ago) and the ‘97 Jamet as co-WOTN. Both are classically-styled and drank very well last night. Actually, and overall, I enjoyed all the wines last night.

More importantly, Marina and I were truly glad that we got to catch up with Arv, Jenn, Dale and Betsy. Nice to meet Arv's college friend, Brian, as well. We haven’t seen Arv and Jenn since they moved, plus we missed the offline when he last visited. A fun night last night.

As for La Sirene, I really liked the latest, slightly more broth-y version of the cassoulet. It was less dense and lighter than the very good earlier versions. Also liked my chevre tart. The additional seating space at La Sirene was also most welcome.

Regarding the 1997 No. Rhone, I’ve had above satisfactory experiences with some CoteRotie, Cornas and Hermitage that I had. I’ve found them to be leaner and always provided the good classic N. Rhone experiences. I’ve continued to back-fill whenever reasonable prices on preferred producers pop up. Fwiw, a quick googling showed Parker with a 90-point rating on ‘97 N Rhones. I think that the N. Rhone 1997 being ignored may be akin to the vintage, just as the terrific 1991 vintage was, occurring during the generally “bad” vintage in most of France.
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