I was commissioned to choose the wines for the reception after the funeral of Paul, the rather rough but very charismatic owner and teacher at Germaine’s riding club, whose untimely illness and death has shocked and saddened all his friends and pupils.
The Belgian Met office promised a brilliant and very warm day and delivered perhaps the hottest this “summer”.
I was constrained by the budget because a lot of people would turn up and the widow needs all her resources to continue running the business. My choice therefore fell on fresh tasting wines at friendly prices. All the people whom I asked said that the wines were ideal in the circumstances and I thought so myself too.
Altogether it was a very moving occasion helped by the radiant weather. There were fine but concise addresses by the deacon and three friends together with a parade of smartly uniformed riders on their handsome mounts and a series of fanfares on a hunting horn at the cemetery. The reception took place at a friend’s house opposite the club alongside the swimming pool overlooking verdant countryside. It was a great send off and Paul would have loved the occasion; the only thing missing was his exuberant presence and racy stories.
Montravel blanc 2010 – Château Moulin de Bel Air (€5,20), made from Sauvignon 70%, Sémillon 25%, Muscadelle 5%, was exhilerating with lovely fresh green and red fruit (a lot of gooseberry and red currant – incidentally both called “groseille” in French), plenty of juicy acidity and some underlying “gras” and charm (Sémillon effect?); punching well above its price point; 15.5/20.
Corbières - Rosé du Château Lalis - Choryphée 2010 - Château Lalis (€5,80), from Carignan 80%, Grenache Gris 10%, Syrah 10%, was crisp and lively with some nice red fruit and spice as well as some underlying warmth and backbone; 15/20+
Chinon 2008 - Domaine du Moulin à Tan (€7,20) was just what I look for in young Loire Cabernet franc; medium/light body, fresh red fruit with notes of minerals, peppers and charcoal, decent grip and lively mouth-watering acidity. I feared that some people might find the acidity excessive but I heard no complaints; 15.5/20.

