Saint Joseph 2001 Les Rouasses – Domaine Vallet – Alc.12.5% somewhat better than my memory and note on a bottle in May last year showing the trademark sour cherry of Northern Rhône Syrah, but somewhat sweeter than I recall then, allied to hints of metal and mineral on a quite round medium weight body with lively acidity and sound tannic structure; a quite elegant bottle but missing something, especially for a special bottling for this wine merchant; 15.5/20+.
Crozes-Hermitage La Guiraude 1999 – Alain Graillot – Alc.13% showed what was missing in the St.Jo adding greater purity, focus, brightness, depth, elegance and length together with crisper mouth-watering acidity to the same recipe; brilliant with Burgundian elegance, still youthful and with more heft than Graillot’s always excellent basic cuvée making a good ringer for Hermitage itself; 17/20.
Chablis 1er cru Fourchaume 1990 – Caves Duplessis – Alc.12.5%
I have great memories of a bottle of this as an example of what decent ageing can do to Chablis. Here is what I wrote in December 2006 –
The nose was quite subdued but complex with floral and creamy notes. However the wine opened up on the palate in a way that its nose did not presage. Aromas were of white fruit, nuts and minerals on a medium weight quite fleshy body filling out towards the finish with a delightful honeyed and mineral fragrance. Any typically Chablis flintiness and steeliness has long since been absorbed, if indeed they were ever very present in this warm year but there was plenty of delicious acidity to provide freshness. A lovely wine (or should I say bottle?). (Not scored then but sounds like 17.5/20)
I should have drunk the remaining bottle soon afterwards because nearly 5 years later the wine has slimmed down, its aromas have become more muted and there was a bitter note on the finish. Still enjoyable but past its best; 15.5/20.
Ribera del Duero Pesquera Tinto Crianza 1995 – Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez – Alc.13%. This estate which was much trumpeted in the 90s seems to be fading on radar screens. This bottle was very good with lovely cherry tinged aromatics not a million miles away from some Burgundies’, full/medium body, still lively red and dark fruit, generous mouth-fill and good warm tannic structure; no residual evidence of oaking other than a silky texture was another plus. It is probable that this Crianza appeals to me more than would a more pretentious Reserva or Gran Reserva; 16/20+++.