WTN: 2 Northern Italians, plus NM and Burg

Last night we walked over the hill to visit friends, the hound went too, enjoying her night walk even more as she realized where we were going. Munchies of nuts and a frittata, then we went onto deck for some spicy grilled squid, then a lovely squash and ovendried tomato pasta and salad.

NV Gruet Rose Brut
Sweet strawberry, a hint of yeast, easy going- no mistaking for Champagne, but clean and easy. B-

2007 Bavard "Les Champs Perriers" Bourgogne blanc.
Good acids, apple and pear fruit, straightforward and a good backdrop to the calamari. B-/B

1996 Vallana Boca
I've generally been sceptical of Vallana post 1970, but this actually showed nicely- light to medium bodied, floral, some tar and roses over raspberry fruit, holding well. B

2005 Donnas (Vallee d'Aoste)
this from the co-op, I forgot to write down actual co-op name).
Ron handed me bottle to open, as I was pouring test sip the TCA assaulted me. He found a backup of same wine. Nice - a bit like the Boca but fresher, more elegant. Light, violets, bright cherry, earth. Fun wine. B+.

Fun night, fantastic post tropical storm weather, nice walk home

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency

Dale
I'll be just round the corner from Vallana at the end of next month, so will keep an eye out for recent bottles from them (whilst I'm keeping a very beady eye out for older bottles!). More likely though will be a tasting of Ghemme and Gattinara wines. If the weather is good, we plan to cycle between the two!
regards
Ian

Dale, from what grape varieties are Donnas and Boca made?

Both are Nebbiolo centric blends. I think the Boca was 60% Nebbiolo, with the rest Vespolina and another grape whose name escapes me. Not sure what was in the Donnas, but I believe has to be 80% Nebbiolo, with rest Freisa, PN, and a couple of local grapes I don't know.
Ian,have fun! Look forward to reports

The Boca estate I've tasted had some Croatina in it.

At the risk of shilling (I think I'm safe because none of you are in CA) anyone interested in northern Piedmontese wines should try Sella's wines from the Lessona and Bramaterra appellations. Very distinctive and attractive alternative views of Nebbiolo from two very different soil types.

Oliver,
I do order from CA stores, but still don't think you're shilling, you've added a lot to conversations around here.
I am a fan of the Sella Lessona (as well as the inexpensive Orbello). Never seen the Bramaterra, but it is for sale in NY. There's also the Bramaterra "I Porfido" showing in CA at 2 shops I have bought from. Would you mind commenting on:
1) differences in terroir between Lessona and Bramaterra (or how they compare to other high Piedmont areas)
2) any vintage guidance
3) is the I Porfido the "luxury" cuvee, and if so does that mean new oak?

Both are Nebbiolo centric blends. I think the Boca was 60% Nebbiolo, with the rest Vespolina and another grape whose name escapes me.

For some reason 'Bonarda' sprung into my head - could that be the other grape?

Hi Dale -

Thank you for the interesting notes. Although I've liked some of the Campo delle Piane/Le Piane Bocas, I'm not familiar with the Vallana. Anyway, just wondering why you say that they have generally declined since 1970 - did they switch to a more modern (oakier) style?

Having liked several Valle d'Aosta reds, I'd be interested in trying the Donnaz sometime as well.

Oliver,
I do order from CA stores, but still don't think you're shilling, you've added a lot to conversations around here.
I am a fan of the Sella Lessona (as well as the inexpensive Orbello). Never seen the Bramaterra, but it is for sale in NY. There's also the Bramaterra "I Porfido" showing in CA at 2 shops I have bought from. Would you mind commenting on:
1) differences in terroir between Lessona and Bramaterra (or how they compare to other high Piedmont areas)
2) any vintage guidance
3) is the I Porfido the "luxury" cuvee, and if so does that mean new oak?

Thanks, Dale.

As far as soil goes, the Lessona is yellow sand and the Bramaterra is porphyry; in flavor this translates to the Lessona having a very distinctive spicy character, sort of cinnamon and fraises de bois, whereas the Bramaterra is more wiry, more restrained, almost Mourvedre-ish. I fell in love with Lessona first but now cellar them both equally. (There is also a Rosé of Nebbiolo from both appellations which is very striking, smells like watermelon and pomegranate.)

The vintages sort of parallel those in Barolo, except when hail is present. Right now you're looking at 3 excellent vintages from '04-'06, with '04 being slightly riper and the other two slightly fresher. As with Barolo I'm a fan of the '05s assuming the producer picked before the rains. The wines drink very well young, particularly the Lessona, but we drank the '21 and the '69 Lessona a little while back, although the '21 was more of a curiosity the '69 was in great shape.

I Porfidi ('Porphyry') is the equivalent of the San Sebastiano allo Zoppo, a reserve bottling. In theory both of them have some small wood, not all new, but I can't taste it (I hate the taste of new wood these days, I've gotten rather Taliban about it). There is also a regular Bramaterra, which is the equivalent of the straight Lessona, both of which are aged entirely in properly maintained large barrels. If you need more info their website has a lot more facts about the wines than most Italian sites, thank heavens.

I think the potential in northern Piedmont is great, and the limiting factor is the winemaking, which is often too rustic. Sella's wines are carefully made but not glossy. As time goes on there will be more and more well-made wines and the terroir will reveal itself. I understand that in say 1900 these areas were more famous than Barolo, who knows what the future holds.

Dale,

i think the Donnas is Coop Donnas or something like that (Co-op from Donnas). I had the 2004 of that and really enjoyed it: a lovely fresh Alpine wine, and a good deal for the low-20's price. It's nice that there are wines like this out there.

Mark

Ian, that sounds right

Andrew, the 50s and 60s Vallana Spannas (never seen a Boca from that era) are famously longlived. I've had a dozen, and none past it. But there are persistent rumors of trucks of Aglianico heading to winery in old man's day

Oliver, thanks for info. I've enjoyed the Majoli (sp?) rosato, though haven't seen lately. I just ordered some '05 Porfido from west coast.

Mark, thanks for info. Sounds like a good co-op!