Our wine interest is extremely vulnerable to the common cold. I have skipped writing up wines for some weeks because, initially, an unseasonably heavy cold took away all taste sensation and, afterwards, medication to deal with the sequels somehow removed my enthusiasm for thinking about wine and, I think, accentuated bitter sensations. Since then I have been on holiday in the Normandy local wine desert. These notes are offered with some diffidence because of possible distortions caused by the cold’s aftermath.
At the height of the cold, I tried mouthfuls of both Vin de Pays de la Cité de Carcassone – Merlot et Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 – Augustin Florent – Alc.13.5% - and Crozes-Hermitage Les Pierelles 2007 – Domaine Belle –Alc.13% - and found them indistinguishable, both smelling of nothing and feeling like stripper in my throat. Luckily there was enough Crozes-Hermitage to enjoy the day after next when my sense of smell and taste buds were reawakening and it emerged as a lively Crozes with typical steely cherry aromas, medium body, velvety texture and decent length; probably 16/20.
And now three wines bought experimentally because of their attractive price.
Cabardès 2009 – Château de Pennautier, Comte Nicolas de Lorgeril – Alc.13.5% - (<€6 special offer) was medium+ bodied and quite structured but seemed somewhat perfumed and harsh on the finish on the first night. It was better two nights later with both those faults nicely tamed and some attractive plum fruit; might improve with modest ageing; 15/20.
Kanonkop Kadette Stellenbosch 2009 – Alc.14% - (c.€8), bought experimentally, did not arouse any great enthusiasm; pleasant fruit, some structure with a not disagreeable rubbery hint; 14.5/20.
Château de Francs – Bordeaux Côtes de Francs – 2006 – Hébrard de Bouard – Alc. 13.5% - (c.€9), Merlot a dominated blend. I bought this as a QPR “petit château” experiment, though Bouard is hardly a “petit” grower. At first I thought that it was working well and I enjoyed the medium/full body, lively acidity, tangy and savoury fruit and was congratulating the producers on the absence of overt oak and Merlot cloying jamminess. However, as the bottle progressed I was increasingly disconcerted by a dry and dusty tannic finish and by a certain rusticity but noticed that these were far less troubling when proximate to a mouthful of lamb stew. I reserve judgement on whether a half dozen of this is worth buying; provisionally 14.5/20++.
Although quite good, I have not felt enough enthusiasm to buy more bottles of the above and the special price on the first has expired.
And finally three old friends –
Chinon Vieilles Vignes 1995 – Philippe Alliet – Alc.12.5% - showed surprisingly full dark fruit and body from, I think, a site a sandy gravel together with attractive leather notes a minerals but also a drier tannic finish than I recall from a previous bottle; just 16/20.
Savigny-les-Beaune La Dominode 1996 - Jean-Marc Pavelot – Alc.13% - was a very nice medium/light linear and elegant Burgundy with still bright fruit, lively acidity and minerals; 16/20++.
Bordeaux Supérieur 2005 – Domaine de Courteillac, Dominique Meneret – Alc.14% - (c.€10), made from Merlot 70%, CS and CF. This estate is my standby for a QPR St.Emilion ringer. This 2005 is a touch closer to jamminess and is more concentrated and structured than the 2008, which is drinking beautifully right now. I think it needs a bit more age to come into its own; 15.5/20 now.