by Andrew Bair » Thu Aug 18, 2011 7:35 pm
Is this the only Champagne out here made from seven different grapes? I know that Aubry and Moutard both use some of the 'lost' grapes, but the most grapes in any other Champagne that I know of is 6 (Aubry Le Nombre d'Or Campanae Veteres Vites and Moutard Cuvée 6 Cépages).
NV Laherte Frères Champagne Extra Brut Les Clos
A field blend of 18% Chardonnay, 18% Pinot Meunier, 17% Pinot Blanc, 15% Petit Meslier, 14% Pinot Noir, 10% Fromenteau (Pinot Gris), and 8% Arbanne. (What, no Bachet Noir?) This might sound like a “let’s include them all” gimmick, but it works quite well, to the point where it’s essentially a Champenois counterpart to Deiss’ Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim. I am not sure what the latest vintage in the solera was; the neck label read “L-09”, if that means anything. No disgorgement date was given.
Good mousse; interestingly, rather large bubbles for a high-quality Champagne. Very nice spiced pear/floral./tropical fruit nose. Medium-bodied, bone dry, with good finesse, precise, and structured. Great acidity here. Lightly toasty/smoky, very mineral, and winy, with notes of white bread, honey, hay, apples, cantaloupe, limes, and tropical fruits. Nice length and depth. Too bad that this is not distributed in Massachusetts yet. Excellent.
The name ‘Les Clos’ is being changed to ‘Les 7’ for future releases - perhaps because Chablis growers wanted to protect the name of one of their Grands Crus?