Venting about synthetic corks

A number of Finger Lakes producers had moved to synthetic corks years ago. At first, I thought this was worth trying, but seeing how the wines tend to fall prey to early or unpredictable oxidation, I have changed my opinion, except for wines that should be drunk soon. Posts to several producers complaining about the early demise of their wines (especially the Rieslings) I recieved everything from lengthy, thoughtful replies to silence. Some producers have gone back, fully or partially, to natural cork, while screwcaps have been so far rejected (AFAIK).

Recently I picked up some 2010 Gewurztraminers on a swing through the FL and decided it might be time to drink some of the older vintages I have. Standing Stone has long made one of the better FL Gerwurztraminers - bold, oily, dry and filled with lots of the rose/grapefruit/lychee notes. Recalling that they still persist in using synthetic stoppers, I figured it might be time to drink thier 2007. Immediately upon pouring the wine had quite a bit more gold color than upon release, and while it was still drinkable, there were distinct sherry-like notes lurking. Drank more like a 10-15 year old bottle (I confess that I am not generally a fan of aged Gewurz). This is more disturbing, given that I once attended a vertical Gewurz tasting hosted at the winery with wines going back 8 vintages (IIRC). Much was made about how well the wines had aged - of course this was when they were still using cork.

I should mention that Standing Stone is one of the wineries that did not respond to my inquiries regarding their use of these closures. It is also disturbing to not that Dr. Frank has recently starting using these closures on their Rieslings (also no reply to my polite e-mail). Maybe it is time to re-orient my purchases?

I'm surprised that any winery would switch to synthetics for ageable wines- 7-10 years ago that might have seemed reasonable, but evidence is solidly in now.
I have no problem with synthetics from wines intended to be consumed within 2 years of purchase.

Dale: I'm quite puzzled by Dr. Frank, of all places, going to synthetics. One of the reasons that small producers resist screwcaps (or so they say) is the cost of the equipment. Frank is large enough so that shouldn't be a factor. And they usually have some pretty worldly assistant winemakers around too. On the other hand, the leadership there sometimes marches to the beat of their own drum - witness their enduring use of "Champagne" for their (very good) sparkling wines.

I can agree with comments viz a viz Gewurz. However, I don't have a problem with premature aging of Riesling. We like mature Riesling and at our age, the sooner the better.

Dead right, Joe. Under those synthetic corks, the aging is very erratic and they tend to go downhill fast. Especially those under
the NeoCork (soft spongy interior w/ slickey/smooth outer layer). Which is why the company went KaPut.
Screwcaps is the way to go.
Tom

Tom:
The stoppers originally used by Standing Stone were even worse than the Neo Cork - I think they were called Normacork? Hard, and uniform in density - the ones they use now are more like a Neo Cork, with a smooth exterior and a spongey inside. They still suck, but just not as bad.

[David M. Bueker]

As far as Finger Lakes wineries using synthetics, I wonder if they are purposely telling us that they do not intend for the wines to age...better for cash flow that way.

As far as Finger Lakes wineries using synthetics, I wonder if they are purposely telling us that they do not intend for the wines to age...better for cash flow that way.

I doubt in most cases it is intentional. One owner I have talked with is convinced of the superiority of synthetic closures (they must have a good salesman) but I was getting the impression that it had more to do with price. And consider this: the average Jane who buys a nice bottle of Riesling (and has no inkling of the wine closure debate) and bungs it in her wine rack for a couple years, only to open it and find a Sherry-like substance. She is not likely to be a repeat customer.

[David M. Bueker]

And consider this: the average Jane who buys a nice bottle of Riesling (and has no inkling of the wine closure debate) and bungs it in her wine rack for a couple years, only to open it and find a Sherry-like substance. She is not likely to be a repeat customer.

Well the average consumer, if they store the wine at all, is storing it in the decorative rack over the fridge, and in two years it won't matter what closure was used.

What you say about storage the rack over the fridge is true. However, some of those wines still drink well after a few years - I can vouch for that. As geeks we have a bit of a storage fetish. On the other hand, the ones with synthetic corks are almost certain to be oxidized.