I love the wines of Roussillon. This seems like the last place in France where winemaking remains “uncivilized.” Winemakers here seem both resolute in their desire to highlight the terroir of their region and open to experimentation of all kinds. In earlier posts, I’ve praised the wines of Gerard Gauby, widely considered the leading winemaker of Roussillon, whose all-organic approach is proved out in the extraordinary quality of his wines.
Now comes Eric Laguerre, who has successfully partnered with Gauby in the past, and is now offering wines under his own name. Laguerre’s family has grown grapes in the Fenouillet region—sort of a sub-appellation of the Cotes des Catalanes—for decades. He took over the family’s 150 acres ten years ago, and decided to pursue strict organic policies (much as Gauby has done). This is only the third vintage of “Le Ciste,” and if his wines are already this good, then the future looks bright for him.
Domaine Laguerre “Le Ciste” Vin du Pays des Cotes Catalanes 2003: On the nose, notes of milk chocolate, red berries, black cherries, and sweet herbs. On the palate: fresh plum, leather, sweet tobacco, cherry, and a quiet yet persistent acidity to keep the flavors lively. On the finish: More fresh purple plum, dried cherry, and cedar notes. About $16.