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TN: Loire Dinner

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Matthew Latuchie

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TN: Loire Dinner

by Matthew Latuchie » Mon Aug 01, 2011 5:28 pm

FRIDAY NIGHT LOIRE DINNER - Ripple - Cleveland Park, Washington, D.C. (7/29/2011)

This was my first time dining at Ripple, and thankfully it won't be my last. Tim O'Rourke did a great job coordinating the dinner and the staff at Ripple took incredibly good care of us. All 5 courses were expertly prepared by executive chef Logan Cox. Fantastic dinner!
Flight One
The Huet was served with a basil custard & roasted anchovy puree in smoked tomato water.
  • 2002 Huët Vouvray Pétillant Brut - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray Pétillant
    Really enjoyed the minerality on the palate - almost like liquid chalk. The stoniness combined nicely with lush, but fresh chenin fruit. Thought the balance was very impressive - and as a side note, enjoyed this more at a warmer temperature (we chilled it down after the first pour but it seemed to lose its personality at a lower temperature). (91 pts.)
Flight Two
I really enjoyed the pairing of the Dagueneau with the chilled corn soup with charred octopus, dried olives, and cilantro. The soup was incredibly unique, and despite never having enjoyed octopus in the past, found this preparation very good!
  • 2005 Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Vieilles Vignes - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre
    Lots of grapefruit, white florals, and smokey minerals. Reminded me somewhat of a toned down Marlborough Sauvingnon. Not overly complex, but had really nice energy. (87 pts.)
  • 2007 Gerard & Pierre Morin Sancerre Le Chêne Marchand - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre
    A really nice surprise! Had a really nice mouthfeel - some might think it a bit too round or lush, but I thought there was really nice balance. Some grassy notes combined well with citrus, chalk, and herbs. (89 pts.)
  • 2007 Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fumé Pur Sang - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Pouilly-Fumé
    Interesting, complex, deep, and intellectual are all words that come to mind when I think about this wine. Incredibly dense herbs led off with subtle lanolin, white florals, crushed rocks and grapefruit. Leave your preconceived notions about sauvignon blanc at the door before trying this. (93 pts.)
Flight Three
Loved the semolina gnocchi with tarragon pesto, pickled eggplant and chilies. I think this was generally considered to be the favorite menu item of the night. The gnocchi was so airy, so delicious.
  • 2007 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Clos du Breuil - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Montlouis-sur-Loire
    General consensus was that something was off with this bottle. The flaw wasn't overly noticeable, but there was a dusty stink to the nose that I noticed. The palate was better, but still a bit awkward with lively citrus and minerals.
  • 2008 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Clos du Breuil - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Montlouis-sur-Loire
    Lots of energy on both the nose and palate. Lovely florals, zippy acidity and minerals on the nose with really deep citrus tones on palate. Really impressive focus and energy - preferred this over the 2007 and 2009. (91 pts.)
  • 2009 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Clos du Breuil - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Montlouis-sur-Loire
    The amount of acidity on the palate really caught me off-guard! For a vintage that's generally considered riper/lusher than many, it was very nice to see the amount of acidity this bottle had. The fruit was lush with a distinct mangosteen component that is very seductive. Didn't have the aromatics that the 2008 had, nor the elegance. (88 pts.)
Flight Four
The four wines here were truly remarkable. Executive chef Logan Cox opted to pair these titans with a poached rockfish with clams, yellow tomato marmalade in a spiced yogurt broth. Awesome pairing!
  • 1996 Domaine du Chêne Arrault Bourgueil Vieilles Vignes - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil
    Very elegant and mature wine. Nose featured jalapeno pepper, tilled soil, and a lively potpourri component. The palate was elegant, and seductive. Flavors of subtle tobacco, forest floor, lithe red fruit and soil were nicely integrated. A very nice surprise! (90 pts.)
  • 1998 Duval Voisin Bourgueil - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil
    A thoroughly enjoyable, mature Cabernet Franc. Very rustic nose of olive, meat, peppers, mushrooms, and herbs....hmm, somewhat like a supreme pizza! Palate was mature and elegant and very airy. I am beginning to think that aged Cabernet Franc is where my tastes are evolving to. (92 pts.)
  • 2004 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny "Clos" - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny
    A fantastic bottle from Rougeard! Very rustic nose that had me thinking of an imaginary combination of Bordeaux and Northern Rhone elements. Lots of cherry tobacco, dried florals, olives and a really elegant meaty note. I think Salil described this accurately when he noted the airiness on the palate - just fantasticly precise, balanced and pure! This was just slightly behind Rougeard's 2006 Le Bourg for me...but not by much. (94 pts.)
  • 2006 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Le Bourg - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny
    This has a nose you can easily get lost in. Seductive and pure red fruit mingle with dried tobacco, red florals, graphite, dense olives and cedar. Reminded me of a nose you'd find from an elegant Bordeaux (one that is heavier in Cabernet Franc). The palate was pure elegance. The red fruit was lush, and was seamlessly integrated with an almost Northern Rhone-like olive tapenade, smokey minerals and tobacco. This was easily the best Loire red wine I've ever had. (95 pts.)
Flight Five
Intermezzo
  • 2003 Nicolas Joly Savennières Roche aux Moines Clos de la Bergerie - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières Roche aux Moines
    I liked this a lot less than I did the first time I tried it. I thought the oxidized nose was a bit too aggressive with a lot of sherry, almond paste, truffle and cream. Luckily, the palate had more energy and dare I say, balance. Lots of nutty characteristics prevail across the palate with some fresh herbs, some lemon and white florals. Always an interesting experience, but not really my style of wine.
  • 2009 François Chidaine Vouvray Les Argiles - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
    Very young with lots of citrus, white flowers, and yellow fruit. The palate was a bit restrained with a good dose of minerals and white peach, but the flavors were a bit linear. Despite the current state of the wine, there's really nice underlying structure and potential. (90 pts.)
  • 2010 Domaine des Aubuisières Vouvray Le plan de Jean - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
    This has incredible energy and verve with sizzling minerality and citrus. The palate was refreshing, but not incredibly deep or complex. Great minerals, fresh herbs, citrus and white florals comprise the palate. (88 pts.)
Flight Six
These desert wines were served with a selection of artisan cheeses.
Posted from CellarTracker
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Salil

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Re: TN: Loire Dinner

by Salil » Mon Aug 01, 2011 6:42 pm

Awesome lineup, though you really shoulda found space for a Baudry or Vatan in there! ;)

I need to find more Clos Rougeard...
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Re: TN: Loire Dinner

by Andrew Bair » Mon Aug 01, 2011 6:49 pm

Hi Matthew -

Thank you for the great notes. Quite a nice lineup there!
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Matthew Latuchie

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Re: TN: Loire Dinner

by Matthew Latuchie » Mon Aug 01, 2011 8:52 pm

Salil wrote:Awesome lineup, though you really shoulda found space for a Baudry or Vatan in there! ;)

I need to find more Clos Rougeard...


It was a little strange not to have any Baudry at the table...i was hoping that a Vatan or two would make an appearance, but i think they're being withheld for a more comprehensive Vatan or "dead or retired" type of dinner.

As I was telling you before Salil, the Clos Rougeard was a revelation for many of us at dinner. I think that every one of us thought of the 2006 Bourg as the best red from the Loire we'd ever tried. One taster likened it to Cheval Blanc and/or Figeac! Awesome stuff!
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Re: TN: Loire Dinner

by Salil » Mon Aug 01, 2011 9:05 pm

Next Loire Cab Franc you've got to try - Breton Perrieres (particularly with a bit of age on it)!

(And of course CRB Cabernet... such a shame that won't be made in 2010.)

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