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WTN: Wines with Terrines, Event #8

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Bill Spohn

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WTN: Wines with Terrines, Event #8

by Bill Spohn » Sun Jul 31, 2011 3:39 pm

The 2011 terrines in the garden event began at about 1:00 under thankfully clear skies, the weather forecast having vacillated all week between endurable to catastrophic cold and rain. Fortunately, this 8th annual event was blessed with the usual mix of good friends, good food, good wines and pleasant surroundings.

Everyone presents their terrine dish, together with two wines that they feel may complement them. We often take advantage of the occasion to test a couple of somewhat different wines to see which works to best advantage with the food.

The first course was a White Fish Mousseline with cucumber vichyssoise sauce, the terrine punctuated by pieces of decorative and tasty fish.

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2006 Daniel Dampt Chablis 1 cru Cote de Lechet – light in colour, and a lot of mineral and nicely calculated oak hints, clean and crisp on palate. Very nice wine.

2010 Ch. D'Esclans Whispering Angel Rosé – from the Lichine property in Provence, this wine had a faint pink tint with pretty effect, a marked fruit aroma that I thought was more cherry at first but quickly settled in to being strawberry, and a clean finish. Good, but not as good with the food as the Dampt.


The next course was a take on a classic from the Tour d’Argent, a terrine of sweetbreads, lobster and truffles in gelée. While tasting very good, the structural integrity left something to be desired, an issue unrevealed in an initial test run. Served with a fennel and apple salad.

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2005 Champelou Vouvray La Cuvée de Fondraux – I knew that this wine was tasty but might lack sufficient acidity to shine, and that turned out to be the case. Slightly sweet apple nose, soft with some sweetness on palate and while fairly full bodied and smooth across the tongue, I felt that the terminal acidity was a bit lacking, leaving a too soft impression.

2007 Ca Rugate Soave Classico Monte Fiorentino – no acidity issues at all with this wine. Full bodied fruit and lemon nose, good fruit on palate and crisp acidity worked much better with the food. Some opined that it would have been interesting to taste this dish with a cool Pinot Noir as well.

The next dish was made from mushrooms obtained by the participant while visiting the Queen Charlotte Islands.

Haida Gwaii Wild Mushroom Terrine, made with a combination of dried and fresh mushrooms, mostly chanterelles with some morels and button mushrooms, garnished with cooked cherries and a bit of goat cheese.

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2009 Georges Descombes Beaujolais Morgon – this wine was showing nice depth of colour and some nice cherry fruit, with soft tannins and good length. Nice choice!


We adjourned at half time for a few rounds of bocce competition, and then returned for the second half of the wines and food.

The next terrine was a classic French style rabbit and hazelnut preparation, with accompaniments of cherry with cherry with radiccio and balsamic vinegar and a mango salsa.

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1999 Jacques Prieur Volnay Champans –This wine was showing as well as I can ever remember. Good colour, with a little funkiness in the otherwise plumy nose, lots of mid-palate fruit, and a long smooth finish. Mellow and perfectly ready.

1996 CUNE Imperial Gran Reserva – another interesting wine choice. Fair bit of bricking at the edges, and a reasonable amount of vanilla in the nose, the wine showed some very nice developed fruit and some hints of dill developed after awhile. Good length.

The next dish had been tested and retested, no doubt changing considerably in the process. Polpettone Rigoletto, pasta nest w/white truffle marinara and black truffle caviar, and Chianti-braised baby turnips is harder to describe than to just look at in a picture – very nicely laid out and very decorative.

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2000 Prunotto Barbaresco – good Piemontese slightly tarry nose, this wine had good fruit levels and abundant soft tannins were present.

1999 Poggio di Sotto Brunello – unlike some Brunellos I tasted a week ago, that fooled several of us into thinking they were from Piemonte, this was pure varietal sangiovese in the nose, with red fruit across the tongue and a mellow lengthy finish. Very nice drinking right now.

Last but certainly not least was an oxtail terrine, served with a bit of greens, gherkins and savoury mayonnaise.

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2001 Arcadian Pisoni Vineyards Pinot Noir - a big wine, intentionally left to the last, this was quite dark, showed a big fruity pinot nose, unmistakeably Californian, and it still had lots of soft tannins and great body. Worked well with the wine.

We then kicked back and some indulged in an apricot roll dessert while others sat and contemplated what they would make for next year, the 9th terrine event!
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Jeff Grossman

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Re: WTN: Wines with Terrines, Event #8

by Jeff Grossman » Sun Jul 31, 2011 9:42 pm

Oh, Bill, please... some tasting notes. What was chewy, what was earthy, what was Lovecraftian. We want to know!
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Re: WTN: Wines with Terrines, Event #8

by Bill Spohn » Sun Jul 31, 2011 9:52 pm

I'm leaving it to Jenise to add the foodie tasting notes!
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Re: WTN: Wines with Terrines, Event #8

by wnissen » Mon Aug 01, 2011 9:44 am

The terrines, truly, are breathtaking, but what about the photos? Superb color and HDR! Who took them?

Walt
Walter Nissen
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Re: WTN: Wines with Terrines, Event #8

by Bill Spohn » Mon Aug 01, 2011 10:11 am

I'm the designated photographer. No fun shooting into the sun but better than having me sitting in the sun so I can shoot into shade!

Here's another one of our desert, a good sized apricot log.

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Re: WTN: Wines with Terrines, Event #8

by Jenise » Tue Aug 02, 2011 12:13 pm

Love these terrine dinners!

I'll comment, but I can't find my notepad so this is off the top of my head.

Coop's seafood mousseline was delicious, and the cucumber vichyssoise particularly clever. In case anyone wondered, for that he apparently made a traditional vichysoisse and then simply buzzed a peeled cucumber into the cooled soup, making it rich and fresh at the same time. It took an elegant dish and made it even more elegant. The wine choices were good. The Chablis spoke more to the sauce while the most excellent rose highlighted the seafood in the terrine. So for me, where I preferred the Chablis just on merit alone, I thought the rose flattered the dish the most.

Then came your luxuriously unusual terrine of sweetbreads, lobster and truffles in gelée. I've never had a combination like that and I enjoyed it very much! As to the wines? The Champelou was, pardon my honesty, not a good match: too sweet as well as flabby. I enjoyed the Soave a lot more, though I think in fact it was too big for your dish which was all about subtlety and nuance. A wine with similar characteristics would have elevated those features, and I agree that a pinot (aged) would have been an interesting accompaniament.

The Haida Gwaii Wild Mushroom Terrine: I regret to say that I did not care for this dish, found it dry and underseasoned. But I enjoyed the wine, which brightened up this course.

David and Nadine's layered rabbit and hazelnut preparation, which followed, was perfection as were their wines. And it is with utmost admiration that I say that where by description neither of those salads would have suggested themselves as perfect accompaniaments to me, after tasting both I could not imagine their terrine without either. Both were as delicious as they were surprising. And both of their wines matched their food perfectly. The Volnay was, in fact, my favorite wine of the day.

And then came my dish. All I can say is, I was most relieved to get it on the table. :) Hard to be objective about one's own baby, but I liked my dish and thought the wines went quite well. I had deliberated right up to the last minute about leaving the barbaresco behind in favor of a younger barolo (I have an 04 that's drinking splendidly) or even another brunello, but at the last I convinced myself that playing up to the two truffle elements in the dish was going to make the most impact, and for that I needed age. I think I chose right. My favorite: the brunello.

And finally the oxtail terrine. George has made this same terrine at least twice before, but I think this was his best version. It was great with that pinot.

I sat out dessert, but it was so lovely I regretted having to.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Wines with Terrines, Event #8

by Bill Spohn » Tue Aug 02, 2011 12:26 pm

I agree with your comments pretty much down the line.

The rabbit course was just spot on with everything - wines, food....

My Champelou was an experiment and it didn't show the acidity a previous bottle had. I'd also opened a bottle of 'G' de Guirad, but felt it lacked sufficient character to match the food. I'd pondered serving with a vintage Champagne - wonder how that would have worked.

The oxtail was good, the Pinot a bit simple, I thought, but suited to the food.

Yoru food was lovely and creative and I agree that the Brunello was the best match, but the Barbaresco was very decent too, just not quite as good a mathc as the Brunello.

That's what is so much fun for me in doing this event, the thought that goes into matching and the results and what we learn from them.

So - any thoughts on what you'll do for T-9........ :wink: Figured you might have doen a couple of trial terrines for that already.
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Re: WTN: Wines with Terrines, Event #8

by Dale Williams » Tue Aug 02, 2011 3:31 pm

wow, wines sound fine, but those terrines look great.
Jealous!
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Re: WTN: Wines with Terrines, Event #8

by Jenise » Tue Aug 02, 2011 3:54 pm

Bill Spohn wrote:The oxtail was good, the Pinot a bit simple, I thought, but suited to the food.... That's what is so much fun for me in doing this event, the thought that goes into matching and the results and what we learn from them.

So - any thoughts on what you'll do for T-9........ :wink: Figured you might have doen a couple of trial terrines for that already.


Btw, meant to mention about the Arcadian--my own bottle of the 01 Pisoni which we drank in late May was hands down the best new world pinot I've had in a long, long time. Grand Cru quality--so I was very surprised by George's bottle. Not even close, though there was no apparent flaw. It was just, as you put it well, a bit simple. My bottle was anything but. It was as if his had been in warmish passive storage--it wasn't cooked, but it seemed to have advanced way beyond mine into near-nothingness.

Nope, haven't even given next year's terrine a thought yet. I tend to think in themes or contexts in which I wish to dabble, the way I did this year deciding I'd do something Italian and sticking with that come hell or high water like the year I made the gelatinized version of a bouillabaise and last year's dual-pastry terrine. I get enamored with an especially challenging concept and flail away until I've mastered it. Btw, I'm thinking of hosting a winter terrine party. :wink:
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Wines with Terrines, Event #8

by Bill Spohn » Fri Aug 05, 2011 12:04 pm

Jenise wrote:Btw, I'm thinking of hosting a winter terrine party. :wink:


I'd never vote against that (heck, I was in favour of doing two of my Foie Fools events in a year until some participants failed to get the OK from their cardiologists), but I think terrines lend themselves so well to summer in the garden that I'd have to view a winter reprise as a booster shot to see us through until the next summer.... :wink:
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Re: WTN: Wines with Terrines, Event #8

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Fri Aug 05, 2011 10:38 pm

The layered rabbit and hazelnut looks terrific. A few bunnies around here but not for much longer as I have plans!!
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Re: WTN: Wines with Terrines, Event #8

by Bill Spohn » Sat Aug 06, 2011 2:35 pm

Bob Parsons Alberta. wrote:The layered rabbit and hazelnut looks terrific. A few bunnies around here but not for much longer as I have plans!!



Here bunny, bunny....

Caught a neighbour's rabbit that was pillaging my garden a few years ago and was headed up to the pantry but unfortunately their kids looked over the fence and saw me before I could 'terrine' it.

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