Dinner at Leo and Connie's last night - as usual, a very fun evening with the typical Frokic hospitality, some great ribs, good friends and a TON of wine (lots of large formats, several bottles I didn't even get around to trying, and some others where I didn't really keep track of names or impressions). Thanks again Leo and Connie.
2005 Louis Jadot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts
From magnum. Still very, very young, showing a spectrum of ripe citrus and white fruited flavours with a patina of new oak. It's incredibly primary and unintegrated, but the fruit, balance and structure suggests it'll be very enjoyable with time if it avoids premox.
1988 Louis Jadot Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles
From magnum again and really lovely the moment the cork was pulled, combining mature white fruited flavours, savoury earthy/truffled notes and a faint toasted almond element that remains in the background. There's a sense of restraint and elegance here, decent acidity though with some air it starts to feel a little warm on the back end.
1973 G. H. Mumm & Cie Champagne Cordon Rouge Brut
From magnum. My first experience with a really aged Champagne. Quite enjoyable though not compelling, showing mature white fruited, earthy and toasty flavours merging together seamlessly; a little soft in the mouth with gentle effervesence and not as much acidity as I'd like.
1985 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Champagne Brut Vintage Reserve (Gold Label)
From magnum, lovely stuff with layers of fresh baked brioche, truffles, savoury white fruits and vanilla cream notes conveyed with a sense of grace and effortlessness; polished and nuanced with the acidity and bright effervesence giving the flavours a sense of real freshness.
2008 François Chidaine Vouvray Le Bouchet
From magnum, superb again with golden Chenin fruit, floral, honeyed and faint wooly elements in a medium weight package that's beautifully balanced with moderate sweetness and a sense of real refreshment.
2003 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
Hideously corked.
1997 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle
From magnum. Quite disappointing, dull and blocky; packed with black fruit and some earthy elements but not showing any of the depth or complexity I'd enjoyed from a bottle a few years ago.
1998 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage
Some debate about this (with a few people who thought it was too modern), but this was my favourite of the night - phenomenal wine with all the smokiness, meatiness and bright fruit I'd expect from a young Chave, all combining seamlessly into a polished, perfectly balanced whole.
1993 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese
Still very youthful, showing a whiff of sulfur initially that blows off to reveal fresh pear and apple fruit seasoned with slatey, herbal and developing smoky elements. Moderately sweet, drier and lighter than most modern Spätlese with bright acids and impressive length.
2005 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel
Awesome. Starts out quite sulfury, but once that blows off (surprisingly quickly, with just a few minutes in the glass) it unravels layers of pure Mosel fruit, riper honeyed and floral elements, somehow conveying both incredible richness and density and at the same time an ethereal sense of lightness. There's amazing depth here, a sense of real purity and clarity to the flavours and this is a wine that'll age very, very well.
1959 Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Ursules
From jeroboam; still incredibly youthful with a deep red colour and fresh red fruited flavours accented with a melange of developed earthy, herbal and forestal elements. There's a sense of brightness and vibrancy to the fruit still, resolved tannins but bright acidity beneath and a real treat - thanks Leo.
1985 Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Mountain
Some debate and differing opinions on this, but I really enjoyed it - lovely mature Cabernet with developed cedary, tobacco and earthy elements around a core of red and dark fruits that still seem quite fresh and lively.
1937 Jean Bourdy Côtes du Jura
A unique experience, but more interesting than enjoyable - quite oxidative, much like a dry sherry with savoury nutty, earthy, waxy and truffled flavours enveloping baked yellow fruits. There's a creamy, slightly oily quality to the texture, unusual and a pleasure to try, though not a style of wine I particularly enjoy.
1996 Cantina Vignaioli (Elvio Pertinace) Barbaresco
From magnum, showing high toned red fruits with tarry and herbal accents, and a faint VA note. Not bad, but not particularly interesting.
2009 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Rosé
Fresh strawberries with a gentle herbal seasoning; incredibly refreshing, light and pure, perfect summer wine.
2009 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett
Even better than the last bottle I had in Jan. This is just electric, Riesling with a livewire running through it. Nectarine, citrus and green apple fruit over a bed of vivid stony and slatey mineral notes, incredibly pure, vibrant and refreshing and all too easy to drink. Spectacular wine.