I spent Thursday hiking through the beautiful villages and vineyards of Oppenheim, Nierstein and Nackenheim, really the choicest parcels of the many fine vineyards that Rheinhessen has to offer. Especially impressive is the Rote Hang (Red Slope). This section of rust-red, iron-rich clay, sand, and sometimes slate hugs the Rhein which moderates both hot and cold weather. The Rheinhessen has a reputation for being either flat or gently rolling, and while this may be true of the Wonnegau to the south and damn near everything to the west, the Rheinfront, as this stretch is often called, can be included with the Mosel and the Mittelrhein in Germanys steepest vineyard areas. You don’t climb here, you scale (I often work semi-steep vineyards all day long in the Pfalz, but scrambling to the top of some of these bastards was a calf-busting workout.) The region has its stars (Heyl zu Herrnsheim, Gunderloch, Strub, Kühling-Gillot, St. Antony, Gutzler, Seebrich), but in recent years the Rheinhessen spotlight has shifted south to Wittmann and Keller and even further afield west to Wagner-Stempel and some producers have been accused of Rheingauism (aka laurel-resting) but there are starkly visable signs of resurgence and investment in the vineyards and I expect that the greatest estates will again rise to the top very soon. This area is probably the source of the most under-valued Riesling in Germany (along with the better wines of the Mittelrhein.)
Climbing around in this playground of vines, I was struck with an overwhelming thirst for Rote Hang Riesling and so upon my return home, thought it a good time to break open the following:
1971 Jacob Gerhardt Niersteiner Hipping Riesling Auslese –Rheinhessen, Germany
Really in pristine shape. The fruit is still peaches, orange marmalade, cherries (I often find cherry in aged Rhein Riesling), clover honey, loose-leaf tobacco, toffee, and the pages of ancient, leather-bound books. The sweetness has predictably given way to a sense of fullness, of richness, though it is almost completely dry tasting. It is deftly tangy and spicy and aromatic in ways that only well-aged wine can be. The best compliment that I can give is that it is incredibly delicious. It isn’t complicated (though it is complex), not overly-impressive, profound, nor does it demand scholastic endeavor. It is simply well-made wine in the prime of its life. Beautiful.
Cheers,
Bill
. So I'm not sure that I can answer your question. It would be fun to do a complete Schloss Johannisberg, Vollrads, Eberbach, Schönborn tasting. You can't find better vineyards in Germany.