2006 Jean Bourdy Côtes du Jura Rouge
A blend of equal parts Pinot Noir, Poulsard and Trousseau. Starts out very reticent and not showing much besides pale red fruits and a lot of acidity; with time it opens up aromatically to show gentle earthy, leather and anise elements along with a faint oxidative note. Very light on its feet with grainy tannin and really bright acidity, more enjoyable with food than on its own.
2005 François Chidaine Vouvray Sec Clos Baudoin
Golden Chenin fruit and some florality, but this is dominated by its alcohol and hard to drink after the first couple of sips. After two days in the fridge, the alcohol integrates better but it still feels a bit too heavy handed.
2006 Philippe Pacalet Nuits St. Georges
David B. brought this along to dinner a few nights ago at my request; I've been intrigued by the couple of Pacalet wines I've had before but the prices are restrictive. Very pretty; bright aromatics with fresh red fruits, savoury earth, floral elements and a slightly tart grapefruit/citrus element. The acidity sticks out a little at first and makes it feel rather shrill initially, but it settles down and integrates with a little air and this becomes very enjoyable with some patience. Very nice with pan-roasted quail, though I'm still not a Pacalet buyer.
1998 Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Auslese
From a late-released lot, in a wonderful place right now showing off ripe Riesling fruit, developing smokiness and creaminess, touches of honey and florality in an elegant, medium bodied package. The sweetness is quite moderate here, tempered by age (I'm guessing) and bright acidity, and this comes across drier and lighter than a lot of modern Spätlese. Lovely now, but I expect my other two bottles will still last a while.
2007 Domaine de Fauterie St. Joseph Les Combaud
Vividly peppery, saline and meaty elements around a core of fresh red and dark fruits, beautifully balanced and drinking very well right now. At the price (mid-20s), a no-brainer buy that's as good if not better than a lot of young traditional Cote-Rotie I've had.
2007 Éric Texier Côtes du Rhône-Brézème Vieilles Vignes Domaine de Pergaud
A a little tight at first but really unravels and opens over a few hours with a meal, showing layers of pure red and dark fruits, savoury earthiness, forestal/herbal notes and peppery elements in a seamless, polished package. There's a sense of restraint and remarkable elegance here, flavours conveyed with a lightness of touch that I'd expect in a top Burgundy. Great wine.