What have we got here, a red martini? is my snickering reaction two nights ago to a 2006 Bethel Heights Pinot Noir Casteel Reserve that I picked up for sixty bucks at the winery two years ago. The label admits to 14.8% alcohol but this sucker reeks of booze and burns like a shot of white lightning. So I pour most of what's left into a half-bottle and the rest down the drain and stash the 375 in the cellar. Tonight, 48 hours later, against my better judgment, I bring the 375 to table and....
....it's screaming over the top delicious, a lean and lovely black cherry and currants loamy delight. This is about as good as Eola Hills-Amiy Pinot gets. I love it. OK, I know the wine needed air to bring the fruit and earthy flavors out -- but where did the alcohol go?

