Random notes from the past month.
2009 Isole e Olena Chardonnay “Collezione di Marchi” IGT Toscana
Although I have not been impressed by any of Isole e Olenas reds, which always seem too ripe, they are doing a surprisingly good job with Chardonnay, of all things. This has a lightly nutty nose. Medium-bodied, focused, well balanced, with moderate acidity; shows notes of peaches, pears, minerals, and hazelnuts. Good finesse here. Very good.
2009 Castello di Ama Il Chiuso IGT Toscana
An unusual blend of Sangiovese and Pinot Noir, which works better than one might expect. Lightly earthy, plummy nose. Medium-bodied, well balanced, elegant, slightly round, softly earthy/mineral, with cherry and plum flavors, plus hints of wintergreen and cloves. Very good/excellent; a nice, very terroir-driven Super Tuscan of sorts.
2009 Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Noir Whole Cluster Fermented Willamette Valley
Nose of cherries – and – the dreaded bubble gum/acetyl yeast of Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau, which certainly they didn’t have to use. Light in weight, balanced, with cherry and berry notes, but I just can’t get past the bubble gum. (Why does an organic wine have to contain the most blatantly artificial smelling yeast?) Not one that I’ll buy again.
2005 Château Couhins-Lurton Pessac-Léognan Grand Cru Classé Blanc
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Medium-bodied, balanced, though surprisingly light in weight for a white Bordeaux, due in part to the absence of Semillon. (Then again, Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux is also all Sauvignon, and I remember it being a fuller, fatter wine.) Citrus and herbal, with some apple and vanilla notes. Good/very good – not a standout white Bordeaux, however.
2004 Domaine des Deux Ânes Corbières “Premiers Pas”
This natural wine is blend of Carignan and Grenache that undergoes carbonic maceration. Some initial animal aromas blow off to reveal a nose of dried earth, violets, cloves, and ground mixed peppercorns. Full-bodied, albeit light in weight and finesse-driven; well balanced, with good underlying acidity and resolved tannins. Has a slightly furry texture. Elegantly earthy, with raspberry, blueberry, and baking spice flavors; cranberry notes on the finish. Very good.
2003 Domaine Marcel Deiss Burlenberg
Field blend of mostly Pinot Noir, with some Pinot Beurot, which Jean-Michel Deiss considers to be a distinct variety different than Pinot Gris. Decanted for about 45 minutes. Interesting nose – rather feral/animal, with some roasted scents, berries, and hay. Full-bodied and ripe, in keeping with the vintage – although I have generally avoided most 2003 Burgundies because of the heat, the riper vintage isn’t necessarily a bad thing for an Alsatian Pinot Noir (or Pinot Noir-based field blend, in this case). Quite nicely balanced, with velvety, plush fruit, good underlying acidity, and somewhat powdery tannins. Tastes of blackberries, raspberry jam, minerals, spices, dark chocolate, and mint, with some additional earthy/mossy/graphite notes. Nice length on the finish. Excellent.