1999 Dom. Michel Lafarge, Volnay Clos du Château des Ducs:
Upon opening, quite aromatic with stone, vinous red fruit and light mushroom aromas, very slightly reductive (so I decanted the bottle off some sediment); slightly tannic attack with moderately complex flavors that follow the nose adding a light herb tone, a bit hollow at mid-palate; medium length, grippy finish. Overall, showing closed and youthful without the depth or density I would expect from this producer and this dirt.
One-half an hour later with pasta with mushrooms; more density and length, the middle has firmed up and the flavors have taken on some depth and stand well with the dish – this is still an elegant, mid-weight wine but the pedigree is starting to show.
Five and a half hours later without food; more reticent aromatics; continuing development of density at mid-palate with more evident depth, concentration, breed and length, yet still, the overall impression is a closed and structured wine.
About $75, on release.