by Hoke » Sun Jul 03, 2011 1:02 pm
Agree on all counts, Tom. Bonne' writes an excellent article, and makes some points that need to be made (many of which won't happen, of course), but with the AVA thing, he seems to be willing to throw the baby out with the bathwater rather casually.
Are there flaws in the ways the AVA gesticulated? Not much question about that. No one is really happy with the way it has progressed, with the possible exception of a handful of promoters of dubious zones (Sonoma Coast as it is now drawn; SF Bay area monstrosity) to lend spurious legitimacy and single-place obsessives who achieved some sort of recognition of obscurity for narcisistic reasons alone.
But for a system still in its infancy over a short period of time, and even with the awkwardness of the mismanagement of political chicanery and bumbleosity of the ATF/TTTB (hello, cluelessness), I believe the AVA system is a positive thing and not to be cast aside.
Sadly, the great weakness of California is and always has been the great weakness of California...along with the entire mass wine drinking population of the US which is happy with marketing over substance and cash over substance. The appearance of rather than the reality of is sufficient for most, so that Paris Las Vegas is pretty much equal to Paris, France and Disneyland is the ideal. That's the climate where rich people can indulge their fantasies, and thereby indulge the fantasies of the common folk.
But it's difficult to change human nature, innit? And as long as people like trash and flash bought by cash, the system and the problem will remain.
In the end Bonne' is writing for lovers of wine. Unfortunately, that's not the group that cares about or supports dedicated winemakers and good wine, is it?
