John and Andy organized a Heitz-centric dinner last night at Apiary, a night with good food, good conversation, and some great wine. Special thanks to Andy who supplied the bulk of the wine.
Apiary is a nice space (if a tad loud), food was excellent (several dishes replicated what I had recently there with Lipton et al, but if anything even better last night), good service. Yellowtail crudo with avocado, sweetbreads with romesco sauce, duck breast with parsnip puree, strip steak, and a cheese plate of Epossies, Tete de Moine, and a goat cheese whose name I missed again.
We started with a pair of Champagnes (I think both courtesy of Dan) to refresh us and see us through the hamachi dish:
1990 Deutz Blanc de Blancs
Very good, fullbodied with citrus and chalk, fully mature. B+
NV Gosset Rose
Yeasty, not really showing much, one person thought vegetal (actually rotting vegetables), I didn't get that - or much of anything. B-
On to the reds
Flight 1
1984 Heitz "Bella Oaks" Cabernet Sauvignon
When I double-decanted this before going to city I thought there was a whiff of ashtray here, it developed more by serving. Redder fruit, hint of green (some thought more than a hint), a bit tired. B-
1985 Heitz "Bella Oaks" Cabernet Sauvignon
Herbal, solid fruit, quite good, I think I enjoyed more than some others. B+
Flight 2
1986 Heitz "Martha's Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon
This seems a bit tight and coiled, some menthol, earth, structured but not bulky. B (with lots of potential)
1984 Heitz "Martha's Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon
Ripe, full, elegant, mint/herbs, long, lovely. A-
Flight 3
1980 Heitz "Martha's Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon
Ripe, nice texture, full, still some tannins. B+
1979 Heitz "Martha's Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon
A touch of VA, forest floor, redder fruits, I actually liked this a lot though much of table didn't. B++
Flight 4
1978 Heitz "Martha's Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon
Long, warm, inviting, solid fruit, clear menthol signature, elegant, my WOTN against strong competition. A/A-
1976 Heitz "Martha's Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon
Good, firm, mature, maybe I'd have scored even higher in a different flight. B+
Soloing
NV Heitz "MZ1" Cabernet Sauvignon
This is a mix of Martha's and Napa fruit, possibly mostly 1971). Great herbal nose (just a hint of VA, nothing extreme), but a bit flat on palate, and shorter on finish than most of the wines. Still, great nose, and I liked a bit more than others. B
Final Flight
1968 Heitz "Martha's Vineyard"Cabernet Sauvignon
Other contender for my WOTN (and probably most people's fave). My notes read "yummy, elegant" in total. A-/A
1967 Heitz "Martha's Vineyard"Cabernet Sauvignon
A little tired, some ashtray, plummy fruit,. resolved tannins, probably better 10 years ago but I still like. B
What a night. I expected to be impressed, but a very solid- nay, great- lineup.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
