by Tim York » Thu Jun 30, 2011 4:50 am
I tasted the Esclans range last autumn. I liked the cheapest, Whispering Angel, best and found the wood and the price of the top two equally off-putting. I wonder if Sacha Lichine does not have his tongue in his cheek. Here are the TNS -
Château d’Esclans & Domaines Sacha Lichine, La Motte, Provence
I have read such a lot about these super-charged rosés that I couldn’t resist a stop at this table. All the wines below are appellation Côtes de Provence rosé.
Whispering Angel 2009 (€14), from five grape varieties vinified and raised in inox tanks, was pretty and moreish with lively acidity, soft feel on entry and mid-palate with grip at the finish; 15.5/20.
Esclans 2008 (€20), from Grenache and Rolle and raised partly in barriques, showed more generosity and structure; 15.5/20.
Les Clans 2008 (€50!!), also from Grenache and Rolle and raised 100% in barriques, showed exotic fruit (some pineapple) and a caressing feel with also vanilla notes from the wood; hardly 15/20 for me now but it may develop into something.
Garus 2008 (€80!!!), from old Grenache vines and raised 100% in barriques, showed more density and a lot of structure with again exotic fruit and wood aromas and tactile sensation; hardly 15/20 now with more confidence in + development.
I might just consider buying a bottle or two of Whispering Angel or Esclans for further experiment at home.
Tim York