WTN: Fieuzal blanc 2005

Ch. de Fieuzal Blanc 2005 - Pessac-Léognan; 13% abv; c.55€

I have heard great things about Fieuzal's white so it was high time to try it. I was fearing oak - as in the more "serious" dry Bordeaux whites I have so far had it seems to have been the most important aromatic component - but I shouldn't have been afraid.

The color, despite inadequate background in the photo below it looks right to me, was alarmingly dark. And the scent was slightly oxidative at first; but by my second glass it was perfectly fresh! This is something I see often in white Musar, but not really in any other wine. The scent was very interesting: it does have a touch of oak still apparent, but mostly it is of citrus - citrus of such a concentrated and ripe yet refreshing nature, mineral and greenish, that it smells almost like Riesling. I honestly don't find all that much Sauvignon Blanc character in this (thankfully, as I rarely enjoy the grape).

Rich, but racy and crisp, too. High acidity, but not screeching. The oak is a little apparent on the finish, which is otherwise nice with plenty of minerality and ripe citrus fruits.

This has cut, delineation, elegance even, yet I'm not rushing out to buy more. And that is not only because of the price but also for it lacking the clarity and purity I seek for in wines. It seems that even integrated oak, as in this wine, causes enough of a diminution in purity that I don't fall in love even though I do appreciate this wine. So this goes into the category of something I will happily drink; but not one I would buy.

Otto, I'm surprised that this interesting post has provoked no response here to date.

Those are exactly my feelings very well expressed about most prestige white Bordeaux even where the oak treatment has been relatively discreet. Some do become better focussed with more age but I have also had poxed bottles, e.g. Fieuzal 1993, I think, opened several years ago. I've stopped buying them.

Some of the cheaper ones (<€10 here) can be nice refreshing tipples.

Otto, I'm surprised that this interesting post has provoked no response here to date.

Well, I wanted to reply, but was unsure of what to add. White Bordeaux, Graves in particular, was one of the first wines I bought before starting my wine journey, so I have some simpatico affiliation with them. What i enjoy about them is the viscousness, the oily yet spry character they get with age, the creamy diesel qualities that come through. That being said, I like this taste about once a year or two, so I don't go through that many bottles of them. Sometimes I wish the oak was less noticeable or less new. I haven't really experienced any pre-moxed bottles so cannot discuss that aspect. My only complaint is that they are so damned expensive! Pape Clement blanc for $150...forget the others, it's simply crazy. Sure, you can buy Chateau Brown blanc for around $50 and others, but these are not cheap tipples. The qualities of white Bordeaux are quite unique, perhaps with the addition of semillion which adds that heavier quality about them which I find attractive.

Otto,

You need not fear oak in wine, particularly fine wine.

All is in the way it's used.

Some wines are unquestionably enhanced by oak, and so finding oak on the nose and even the palate can be totally in keeping with the wine's flavor profile.

Of course, if you don't like it, you don't like it. But it's hard to imagine a great Bordeaux or Burgundy without it...

I far prefer the Fiuzal white to the red.
I have a bottle of the 2006 white Fieuzal and will open a bottle up over the summer.

All the best,
Alex R.


Best regards,
Alex R.

Hi Otto -

Thank you for the note. I just got around to reading it now. Although I'm not usually one for very oaky whites, there is something about a great dry white Bordeaux that makes it an exception to the rule for me. Maybe the oak seems feels more integrated to me than it does in many Chardonnays; I don't know. Still haven't had de Fieuzal, however - it isn't one that I see much over here for some reason.

Anyway, Mark is quite right about the prices for dry white Bordeaux skyrocketing in recent years. Several years ago, I bought a bottle of 2001 Pavillon Blanc du Chateau Margaux - the first great dry white Bdx that I drank. (Actually, Pavillon Blanc is all Sauvignon.) The price then was just over $40. Now, I would be paying about 3x as much for the 2007 edition of the same wine, which I'm not willing to do.