The friend I've mentioned in the past who brings old bottles of California and Washington wines from his father's root cellar in Kelso came to dinner last night with a 1985 Pine Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley. Like nearly every single bottle Jim has brought, including many from the 70's, this bottle was in fine shape and a pleasure to drink. Not youthful but not in doddering maturity either, it had good dark red color, soft lasting flavors, good mouthfeel, and almost no sediment. Now obviously Jim Sr. had a great palate and chose well, but nonetheless it's been interesting that almost zero of these old bottles--for the most part we're talking relatively modest bottles here, Kiona and Bonair not Leonetti, and straight everyday Heitz Napa vs. the touted Martha's Vineyard which was too rich for a teacher's budget--have disappointed or been outright OTH. To be sure, every single bottle has been a privilege to be the people Jim chooses to share these precious connections to his father, who passed away ten or so years ago, with.
And, who was asking about siegeurrebbe from Washington state? Jim's fiancee brought a bottle of Terranova Siegeurrebbe last night that was made by a friend from the hillside vineyard in front of his house on Bellingham's Lake Whatcom. Said friend, Chuck Terranova, is about to open commercially as Inyo Winery and his star wines will be Siegeurrebbe and Mandeline Angevine, both of which he grows. He actually started out with pinot noir and syrah too but finally ripped those out--not surprisingly, even with a south-facing slope the red grapes struggled while the cool climate whites excelled. This siegeurrebbe makes it obvious that Chuck made the right move: it's stunning. Best thing he's made. Made in a crisp dry style, it tastes like a cross between Muscat and Sauvignon Blanc: both spicy and herbal, with white grapefruit, cactus pear, lemongrass, parsley and green tea. Didn't ask but I have to think it's an oak-free fermentation. If Chuck can keep up this quality year after year, this is a local treasure in the making.

