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WTN: The Dorks of York do 'Central Italy'

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WTN: The Dorks of York do 'Central Italy'

by Jenise » Wed Jun 15, 2011 2:29 pm

But first we had to define it. Someone came up with a map that indicated only Umbria, Tuscany, Lazio, and Marche were considered this region, though it made us wonder who Abruzzo and Emilia Romagna pissed off to not be included.

First, Gabe passed around a little pinot rose from Oregon, the 2010 Teutonic Wine Company which none of us had heard of. Everybody liked it better than I did, I found it had too much acid and too little flavor. But earlier as I'd prepped the wines I chose for the night, I found them too heavily acid too and wondered if my taste buds were off. And I do think they were, but I caught up quickly.

All wines were served blind in random order.

1) Dense roasted black and red fruit, chickory, bone dry, chocolate, merlot?, warm year, plenty of acid, sturdy tannins, earth, needs beef, hard going from the rose to this right off the bat. Retasted later, either it or I had improved, but it never meritted consideration in my or anyone else's top wines of the tasting. I actually thought it highly likely to be my Lamborghini. 2005 Falesco Marcelliano.

2) Lighter in color and ruddy, nebbioloish. Sweet jammy ripeness in the nose, assertively acidic, not a crowd pleaser, red apple skin, develops a strong black pepper streak in the finish. Interesting but not very Italian. 2nd taste later: a massive sweet floral nose had appeared which reminded two of us, independently, of geraniums with some latex involved. Not unpleasant at all, just wildly different. Definitely the most fun wine of the night. 2006 Paolo Bea Sanvalentino, Umbria. A blend of sangiovese and sangrantino, apparently.

3) Classic Chianti nose, raspberry and cranberry fruit, spice, raisins, metal, chinese temple incense, smoke, doesn't have the richness of a Brunello. Very good. 2007 Castello di Ama, Tuscany.

4) Smokey, black cherry, leather, good density, more fruit and richer than the previous three wines, very good. 1998 Lamborghini Campoleone, Umbria. Note: this was my wine. I decanted this wine at home two hours before the tasting. It was quite swampy, so I poured it through a coffee filter to strain out the sediment. The first didn't do enough good and I had to change it's diapers two more times to basically get it into drinking shape. I don't recall ever having to go that far to clean up a wine before. Also, though it seemed likely that this wine was not a brand new release, it didn't show it's age. If I had more bottles, and I don't, I'd hold it for another five years minimum.

5) Bacon and blueberries! Big fruit, modern, extracted, "slick" said Brian, with acidity buried under the breakfast foods. So we were all pretty shocked when this was unveiled as a 2004 Felsina Rancia Reserva. This was my wine, and no way did it taste anything like this at home. Like the Lamborghini, it was also decanted for two hours and separated from sediment, though there was very little. If you own these, lose them in your cellar.

6) Big berry nose, raisins, very Italian, bold fruit on the palate, lot of body, great balance, inviting--where we'd had to work at understanding all the previous wines, this wine lavished us with attention. Oh crap, I didn't note the vintage (she said, staring at her note pad in disbelief). Oh well, it's a Marina Cvetic from Montepulciano.

7) Instantly the most likely to be a Brunello: licorice, dusty tannins, classic rich sangio nose, big body, cedar, cinnamon, tart balance, raw beets, red clay, lingering sweetness on the finish. Just about everybody's WOTN, including mine. 2001 Tenuta La Fuga, and indeed that's a Brunello.

8 ) Beefy, meaty, fab nose, sangio w/substance, perhaps some cabernet? (no, was the eventual answer). Stunning. Marc's wine, the 1999 Fontalloro.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: The Dorks of York do 'Central Italy'

by Dale Williams » Wed Jun 15, 2011 2:47 pm

I'm shocked by the Felsina Rancia, too.
Have always really liked the '99 Fontalloro
Marina Cvetic is I believe the top Montepulciano d'Abruzzo from Masciarelli.
Thanks for great notes
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Re: WTN: The Dorks of York do 'Central Italy'

by Jenise » Wed Jun 15, 2011 2:55 pm

Dale Williams wrote:I'm shocked by the Felsina Rancia, too....Marina Cvetic is I believe the top Montepulciano d'Abruzzo from Masciarelli.


Yeah on the Felsina. And there was 100% agreement around the table about it's attributes, that's not just me talking. And re the Marina, it's bearer used the Winebow distributor's map of Central Italy, which apparently covered a lot more ground. :)
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: The Dorks of York do 'Central Italy'

by Dale Williams » Wed Jun 15, 2011 3:28 pm

Good for Winebow! Well, I think of Abruzzo as Southern Italy- if you are splitting into Southern and Northern. But if you are having a Central, hard to see a justification for that not being Central- as it's immediately adjacent Lazio (and doesn't extend as far south). I think there is a slightly better argument (both geographically and culturally) for Emilia-Romagna as Northern. Had a Calabrian wine last night, at least I know that's Southern!
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Re: WTN: The Dorks of York do 'Central Italy'

by Brian Gilp » Wed Jun 15, 2011 4:19 pm

Dale Williams wrote:Marina Cvetic is I believe the top Montepulciano d'Abruzzo from Masciarelli.


They have a higher priced wine Riserva Villa Gemma but I have no idea if its better.
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Re: WTN: The Dorks of York do 'Central Italy'

by Diane (Long Island) » Wed Jun 15, 2011 5:12 pm

I'm as shocked by the showing of the Rancia Riserva as Dale. I opened this when it was first released and it showed absolutely nothing. I buried my one other bottle. I hope they haven't had a stylistic change since the 1997 from last week was the wine of a traditional producer. I have to wonder how the 2004 Fontalloro is. My 1999s are long gone, but I have a few of the 2004s and haven't tried any.
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Re: WTN: The Dorks of York do 'Central Italy'

by Jenise » Thu Jun 16, 2011 1:04 pm

Diane (Long Island) wrote:I'm as shocked by the showing of the Rancia Riserva as Dale. I opened this when it was first released and it showed absolutely nothing. I buried my one other bottle. I hope they haven't had a stylistic change since the 1997 from last week was the wine of a traditional producer. I have to wonder how the 2004 Fontalloro is. My 1999s are long gone, but I have a few of the 2004s and haven't tried any.


I know! And it wasn't just me, I emphasize, everyone at the table is an excellent wine taster with a European palate, this wasn't my lone impression. But as I said in my note, it didn't show like that at home. Nor did a previous bottle about three months ago show this way (though I note it was not decanted hours in advance like this one was). I have to conclude that this was a bizarre moment in time, like your kid in a Halloween costume.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: The Dorks of York do 'Central Italy'

by Marc D » Fri Jun 17, 2011 12:20 am

My thoughts on the '04 Felsina Rancia is it needs about 3-4 years in the cellar. My 2001 bottles went through a stage like this bottle showed, prominent oak and dense, somewhat extracted for CCR.

The 2001s Rancia for me are just now coming around to a stage where I really enjoy them.

The Marina Cvetic was 2006 vintage. It was incredibly jammy and sweet, cassis fruit and almost port like in its density. A bit over the top.
Well made wine but not my favorite style.

I thought the 01 Brunella Tenuta La Fuga was the real star. Very much a wow wine in an understated way. Classy and delicious.
Just the right touch of lifted VA, and a great blend of spice, earth, floral, and fruit. Drinking perfectly.

I liked the 99 Fontalloro, and think this could actually improve with a bit more age.

The '06 Bea San Valentino had a wild, interesting, and very different nose, with big dusty tannins. I loved it.

I didn't love the Castello di Ama. I thought it was quite soft and plush, cherry vanilla.
Oh well, I guess I was in the minority on this and the Marina Cvetic which everyone seemed to like.

Happy 25th J and B!!!
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Re: WTN: The Dorks of York do 'Central Italy'

by Jenise » Fri Jun 17, 2011 12:59 pm

Marc, on re-reading it myself I realize you can't tell it from my notes--I pretty much copied from my notepad which were impressions in the order they occurred, not an end-of-evening net reaction--but my findings weren't as different from yours as you think. #2 was my third place wine behind the Brunello and the Fontalloro, but it took awhile for it to endear itself to me. The Marina was my least favorite wine of the night--the initial attraction that Tim coined as "inviting" turned dull by the end of the night. I do think I liked the Castello di Ama better than you did, though, definitely don't recall anything about it I'd call 'cherry vanilla'.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov

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