June 9, 2011 – Inama/Binomio Tasting with Stefano and Matteo Inama, Lower Falls Wine, Newton, MA
Thanks to Stefano and Matteo for coming to Newton to pour their wines, and to the folks at Lower Falls Wine for hosting this event. Before this tasting, I had only tried one of the Inama Soaves, the 2008 Soave Classico; and none of their other wines. Overall, I was impressed with their lineup.
The Soaves from Inama are very nice, if perhaps more modern in style than the likes of Pieropan. I also really liked their Vulcaia Après dessert wine made from Sauvignon Blanc, which had a distinct florality that set it apart from other late harvest SBs that I have had.
Although Inama is probably best known for Soave, he also makes red wines from vineyards in the Colli Berici area. According to Stefano, Carménère has been grown in the area for over 150 years. Most of the local growers erroneously believed that their Carmenere vines were Cabernet Franc. The two Inama reds, while interesting and certainly ambitious, are most definitely on the modern side. Still, I thought that they both showed a sense of place that is too frequently lost in many unabashedly modern Italian reds.
2009 Soave DOC Classico
100% Garganega, as are all of the Inama Soaves. Somewhat floral nose. Full-bodied, bone dry, moderately ripe, well balanced, with moderate acidity. Displays notes of melons, minerals, and straw; some volcanic hints. Very good.
2007 Soave DOC Classico Vigneti di Foscarino
A selection from older vines. Floral/mineral nose. Full, slightly riper, and more mature tasting than the previous wine; well balanced, focused, with moderate acidity. Shows notes of melons, honey, minerals, and peaches, with a certain volcanic character. Very good+.
2007 Soave DOC Classico Vigneto du Lot
A single vineyard Soave from late-harvested grapes, vinified in 30% new oak. Here, the oak adds an additional dimension to the wine, but is complementary rather than overwhelming, and doesn’t take away its sense of place.
Floral/mineral/slightly smoky nose. Full, ripe, bone dry, creamy, focused, and balanced, with moderate acidity; shows tropical/melon/stone fruit/lemon notes, with a distinctly toasty, mineral, slightly volcanic overlay. Nice length. Very good+.
2006 Bradisismo IGT Veneto Rosso
70% Cabernet Sauvignon/30% Carménère. Full, ripe, smooth, yet balanced, with moderate acidity and tannin; shows some creamy oak, along with notes of crème de cassis, mixed berries, plums, earth, and spices. Very good.
2004 Oratorio di San Lorenzo IGT Veneto Rosso
100% Carménère, from a single vineyard. Full, rich, sleek, bright, with some new oak, and sweet, yet not pruny, fruit. Shows notes of cherries, red plums, baking spices, and minerals, with a hint of cayenne pepper. Very different than the Chilean wines that I have had from this grape. Has enough finesse, and the 15% alcohol is well hidden. Excellent.
2006 Binomio Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC
Binomio is a joint venture between the Inamas, and Fattoria La Valentina in Abruzzo; Matteo Inama is the winemaker here. This is a full-bodied, rich, modern-styled Montepulciano made from old vines; nicely structured, with moderate acidity. Although moderately oaky, there is still a sense of the wine’s origins here, as with the better modern Barolos. Shows notes of cherries, mixed berries, spices, and earth, with a slight gaminess. This time, however, the 15% alcohol is more obvious - this is Montepulciano trying to be something else. I wish that I could recommend it, but can't.
2007 Vulcaia Après Vino Dolce IGT Veneto Bianco
From 375 ml bottle; aged in acacia barrels. Lightly viscous, elegant, well balanced, with good underlying acidity. Spicy/very floral, with tropical fruit, earthy, and hot rock notes. Excellent; the acacia wood really adds an exotic, intriguing element here.
After reading thru your notes, I'm surprised that since the Soave is so popular in these parts that their other wines aren't popping up too--I had no idea they made so many.