WTN: Who is making Aussie Cab like this nowadays?

Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Art Series 1993 – Leeuwin Estate – Alc.14% - reminds me why I used to hold this estate in high regard before my confidence was shaken by the plush over-ripe and cloying 1998 version of this same wine and an even more cloying Cab/Merlot 1999. I realise that a lot of Oz criticism did not care greatly for this Cab cuvée in the early 90s and I seem to recall descriptors such as herbaceous and vegetal as well as Halliday’s probably back-handed compliment “lean and elegant”. For my palate, those “faults” have after 18 years produced a Cab which is far better balanced and drinkable than the present showing of this estate’s efforts 5 years later.

C: Quite dense but brown tints showing on the pour.
N: Lovely well developed nose with aromas of lively black current and graphite with touches of cedar and wet leather together with that edge (call it green or vegetal if you like) without which, for me, Cabernet misses something.
P: It was full/medium bodied, linear with good length and fine aromatics playing variations on those from the nose and elegantly structured but by no means lean. Indeed there was depth and a certain richness in the still lively fruit but it was enhanced by sufficiently lively acidity. The overall effect was classy and moreish unlike the 98; 17/20.

In answer to the question. certainly worth looking at the few Yarra Valley Cab producers, plus those in the Great Southern. Perhaps even further south in Tassie (e.g. Domaine A - Peter Althaus).

In Margaret River, perhaps Rockfield who are definitely aiming for a more elegant style. I'd bet that Victorian producer Delatite's version would be in that style as well.

On the occasions I've tried the Leeuwin Cab, I'm afraid I'm in the same camp as those that found it too green/herbal, but IIRC I've only tasted a couple of vintages.

Thanks for that, Ian. Are those wines available in the UK? Not that I get there very often; last time 2 years ago.

Leeuwin Art Cab seems to have changed its style somewhere between 1993 and 1998. This 93 has steadily improved and, although it has its own generous character, I think that it would appeal to most lovers of quite mature warm vintage left bank claret. It reminds me a bit of Mondavi's Reserve Cab 1991, which ranks close to Ridge Montebello and Dominus as one of the best Cali Cabs which has come my way.

Tim
Domaine A yes, but not Rockfield (though some of their basic wines made it to Beers of Europe's wine selection). Yeringberg worth a look, ditto Mount Mary and whilst both are available here, the latter especially will be pretty pricey.
regards
Ian