Travelling to Champagne, Burgundy, Bordeaux,.suggestions pls

A group of my friends and I will be travelling to the following locations at the end of July.

(1) Champagne
(2) Burgundy/Dijon
(3) Bordeaux
(4) Cognac/Jarnac
(5) Piedmont

I would love to have some suggestions as to where to go for lunches and dinners in and around the wineries. I've got many of the winery visit worked out but would still ove some suggestions for easy to access (i.e. easy reservations) but would really like to get some interesting side sights to visit too. Would anyone suggest visiting a cooperage? Cheese shop, etc,...whatever would be in the area of the wineries which is our focus would be much appreciated. We are getting close and the gang is rather excited!!!

Many thanks in advance!

My suggestion is to take me with you!

Sounds like fun.

Piemonte? If you're in Barolo country, esp. if you're in or near Monforte d'Alba, the restaurant/inn: Giardino di Felicin is a great spot.

marco

I was impressed with "Le Terroirs" in Santennay. Small exacting restaurant on the town square. As much as the food, getting there will educate you on the Cote de Beaune. It is at the southern end, so you have to traverse all the major villages. Please allow 3 hours for tasting stops, sight-seeing, etc. Great little restaurant. Then head back north for more rubber-necking. It is hands-down my favorite region, try to get to the Macon if you have time. You are covering a rather large area.

I recommend Brasserie Le Bouligrin in Reims. Huitres, Pied au Cochon, and Profiteroles were both very tasty and enough to get the Champagne growers at the next table to strike up a conversation with us. Nice selection of bubbly as well.

i've stayed near epernay several times. there is a champagne bar there that sells only grower champagnes - by the glass or bottle at very reasonable prices - C Comme it is called and it is right next to the restaurant Cave a Champagne. you should probably visit one of the larger cellars that are so famous. in Reims, Pommery is really impressive.

you can get to Burgundy from there by going through Chablis if you wish. plenty of good places to visit there as well. if you want a really spectacular dinner in burgundy, i recommend Lameloise. OK it isn't cheap; but for what you get it is a real bargain. should be under $300/each.

i've stayed near epernay several times. there is a champagne bar there that sells only grower champagnes - by the glass or bottle at very reasonable prices -

I would go a step further and recommend a visit or two to growers (récoltants manipulants). I have received a good welcome from Egly Ouriet (Ambonnay), Pierre Moncuit (Le Mesnil), Gatinois (Aÿ) and Pierre Gimonet (Cuis) and have bought there; very reasonable prices except at the first. You will get a much more personal approach than the slick presentations of the grandes marques and, if lucky, may learn a lot more. Unless one of your party speaks French, I would recommend checking first whether there is someone there who speaks English and appointments are necessary.

yes, to visits to growers as well as at least one big house with a good cellar. i was just at Gatinois a few weeks ago. the son is taking over - 12th generation - and speaks good english. its about 2 blocks east of the church that you can use as a beacon and you can park in their courtyard. i also enjoyed a visit with Jean-Paul Hebrart at Champagne Marc Hebrart located right at the 'T' as you enter Mareuil. He too speaks good english. As does Isabelle Diebolt at Diebolt Valois in Cramant. Look for the sign as you enter Cramant from the Epernay side. Appointments are thoughtful of the growers time; but i think they can easily be made by phone the day before or even later the same day. i think it is often easier for these people to know their schedule a day ahead than it is a month ahead.

assuming you are driving from Paris: either get off at Ch. Thierry and visit Champagne Pannier - unique cellars carved into rock not chalk. then also visit the American Cemetary and the monument to all those who died at the decisive Second Battle of the Marne - WW1. then drive along the south side of the Marne to Epernay to get a view of that part of champagne. OR get off at Dormans and follow the signs for a scenic entrance to Epernay.

if you do go to burgundy by way of chablis, you might also want to visit the Aube part of champagne along the way. At Champagne Fluteau in Gye-sur-Seine you will find good and distinctive champagnes from this warmer Pinot Noir dominated region. Jennifer Fluteau is from Chicago and she and Thierry are very warm people. I carried cookies with her to her daughters school after a nice lunch at their home. and be sure to buy or taste a bottle of the nearby and fairly rare Rose des Ricys - a still rose with its own AOC.

in bordeaux, since you will be there in july - forget red and white bordeaux and just drink rose! one restaurant we went to had over 20 different ones.

I'll second Richard Fadeley's suggestion of the restaurant: "Le Terroir" in Santenay; great, classic, country-Bourgogne food and a well-selected wine-list. It's an informal spot, family run.

marco

Many thanks for this information!!!! Keep it coming!!!

Cooperage: We visited Tonnellerie Damy in Meursault in a group of around 15 or so. It is was larger and more high-tech than I imagined, and I found it very interesting. Google will reveal details and a video. Don't be put off by the video - it is a lot more interesting in real life - but it will give an idea of the manufacturing steps you see.

Here are just a few:

1. BDX (Margaux/Labarde) - If you wind up visiting Margaux, try out La Gare Gourmande in the little town of Labarde. My friend, Edouard Miailhe (who is also the proprietor of Château Siran), started this up with Chef Olivier Rosa. I've actually had 2 dinners by Olivier Rosa and they were both very good. (At this link you will see my photos of the dishes he prepared during a dinner I attended at Château Prieuré-Lichine in late March 2010. At La Gare Gourmande, the dishes on the menu depend on what is in season and adhere to the traditional cuisine of the area. Prices are very reasonable plus you can BYOB without corkage - something very rare in Bdx. You can read a bit about it here.

Pity you'll be there end of July, Edouard will have already headed to Manila - had you been there earlier, I could've arranged for him to entertain you.

2. BDX (Langon) - Also very worth eating at in Bdx is Restaurante Claude Darroze in Langon (appx. 40kms southeast of Bdx City, past Barsac). I've only eaten there once but had a great meal and do intend to go back. For whatever little it is worth, Parker and Jancis eat here when tasting through Graves and Sauternes - though, obviously, not together.

3.1 BURGUNDY (Chablis) - In Chablis, as far as I am concerned, the best meals are churned out at the restaurant of Michel Vignaud's Hostellerie des Clos (1 star Michelin). They have a small cellar stacked with excellent Chablis at very reasonable prices.

3.2 BURGUNDY (Beaune) - If you go to the old town of Beaune, my favorite restaurants are Ma Cuisine (robust, traditional local fare) and Le Jardin des Remparts (1*Micheline, for a more romantic meal).

3.3 BURGUNDY (Puligny Montrachet) - If you find yourselves in or around Puligny Montrachet, make sure to eat at the restaurant of the Hotel Le Montrachet.

3.4 BURGUNDY (Vézelay) - If you are into the heavy Michelin* thing, aside from Lameloise (which is in Changny), you may wish to consider having a meal at L'Espérance (I think it's too expensive now, but, if you're into fancy eating....). L'Espérance is located in St-Père-en-Vézelay. In Vézelay proper, try out Gilles Lafontaine's Le St-Etienne for good, hearty, homey regional cuisine.

3.5 BURGUNDY (Côte de Nuits in general) - I find the food better in the Côte de Beaune. However, if you must eat in this general area, Chez Guy in Gevrey-Chambertin is ok.

I second the recommendation of Le Montrachet in Puligny. They have several traditional Burgundian dishes very well prepared. And Lameloise deserves its Michelin stars.

-Paul W.

I second the recommendation of Le Montrachet in Pulignny. They have several traditional Burgundian dishes very well prepared.

I remember one meal there, my wife's main course was this cochon noir. She was raving about it, so I took a bite. Absolutely heavenly. We eat a lot of pork here, and I eat a lot even when I'm out and about - and that was one of the best pork dishes I've ever had.

i think the place mentioned in chablis lost its star because of a change of ownership. a lot of locals seem to go to Bistro des Grands Cru which we enjoyed. do not go to Verre Chablis on the square. we enjoy the wines of Jean Francois Bordet at Seguinot-Bordet in Maligny and Francois Servin.

i think the place mentioned in chablis lost its star because of a change of ownership.

Oh, wow, yes, I see they lost their star in this year's guide. I've not been back there in a while. Vignaud sold out? Would you know why?

Best,

N

Many thanks to everyone who helpedout on this post! I've managed to get onto a few of these (Ma Cuisine being the toughest to get a date because of the limited number of days that they open but looking forward to this).

Not yet getting on a plane but lots to look forward to. Hopefully the Cochon Noir will still be on the menu

Piemonte? If you're in Barolo country, esp. if you're in or near Monforte d'Alba, the restaurant/inn: Giardino di Felicin is a great spot.

I had dinner there last week! I agree, it is a nice place with good food and a most impressive wine list. Just one caveat, do not choose the 2000 Vigna Elena by Elvio Cogno, it is rather tired and oxidised. We did not complain initially but in the end we did not have to pay for it. Over all, our experiences with maturer bottles at decent prices were pretty disappointing during the week. Either go for the more expensive bottles or keep to younger ones.

Have fun!
/Anders

I just remembered another nice restaurant we visited: La Rosa dei Vini, just north of Serralunga, near the Gabutti vineyard. Well worth a visit. Not overly expensive and with that elegance that is so characteristic of Italian food. This time avoid Nada Fiorenzo's Barbaresco, IIRC of the 1998 vintage.
/A

Parker and Jancis eat here when tasting through Graves and Sauternes - though, obviously, not together.

Really? Wonder why not? But wouldn't it be an interesting lunch to attend.

Noel, as usual I find myself following in your vinous and culinary footsteps.

Definitely on Ma Cuisine and Les Remparts. Obviously on Les Montrachet and Lameloise. Thanks for the others; I'll put them on the list for future. Don't know if it is still good, but had a wonderful meal some years ago in Gevrey, the Millesime, literally down in one of the old caves; quite picturesque and the food war remarkably good.

Down in the Chalonaise is a lovely place---literally, a truck stop roadside restaurant (a Burgundian vintner/landowner took us there for lunch) close to Mercurey. I vaguely remember the name; I think it was Maison Blanc or Blanche or somesuch, but I definitely remember the superb and totally authentic lunch we had there, as well as the fourteen Mercureys on the chalk board as the wines of the day!!!

For a luxurious hotel in Reims, the Les Crayeres; when Boyer was at the helm of the restaurant it was truly magnificent; don't know now. A superb experience in all regards, and a true Champagne experience.

Noel: You mentioned Darroze---I can't help but wonder if that is the same family as the famous Cognacois producer?

Noel: You mentioned Darroze---I can't help but wonder if that is the same family as the famous Cognacois producer?

Their family produces Bas Armagnac - I believe the one heading that business is Claude Darroze's brother, Francis - who is the father of chef Hélène Darroze, as well as of Marc Darroze who was, when I was there, involved in Claude's restaurant.

Best,

N

In Bordeaux: La Tupina. http://www.latupina.com/pages-en/index.php

In Beaune: Caves Madeleine. It's a wine shop during the day; at night they clear out the center and set up tables. Really good food, and you can browse the shelves for your preferred bottle and pay a small markup.