Mommessin Clos de Tart 1996
Possibly the finest bottle of this wine I have had since release (they were all wonderful), partly because it still appeared on its evolutionary way up. Beetroot-juice-coloured, black reflections. Beautiful beef juice, soft broth cube spice, inner-mouth florality, soft black pepper. High-acid but mild all around, nicely subtle, finesseful, very long. Finally, a bottle of Burgundy the virtually exclusive Bordeaux-loving members of our little wine circle liked – and I mean, really liked! Rating: 92+/~93
Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes 1999
Thanks to René. Even though I have liked the 1999 since release, I may have underestimated it. Raspberry-red to the medium ruby-black. More concentrated and fuller-bodied than I had remembered, longer and sweeter on the aftertaste. Highly finesseful and complex spice nose. Cured beef. Touch of clove. Good finesse. Soft mineral and metal notes. The 13.8% alcohol integrates very well. Firm faintly blood-orangey acidity, firm on the finish, with a youthful bitterness to the tannin. Nicely natural-flavoured wine, opening up more complexity to the fruit, more flavourful and fruitier acidity, faint ginger and onion. Same as last time I tasted it, it seemed to put on weight with airing, as well as length. Rating: 94+/95?
Château Palmer Margaux 1989
Thanks to Christian. Retains a purple hue to the ruby-black. Firm blackcurrant, lead pencil shavings, tobacco leaf, strong stony and a bit smoky minerality. Density and good sweetness. Impressive body for Palmer. Good depth. Faint viscosity. Dried herbs, some semi-fresh ones, too. Quite long. With airing a faint Malaga superripeness, faint leather, but also quite simply sweeter and rounder. Longer perhaps. Rating: 94+?
Château Margaux 1985
Thanks to Christian. Medium-plus to full ruby-black. Earthy on the nose for Margaux. Some dried mushroom. Good crispness to what residual fruit there is at this stage. Soft leadiness. Fairly concentrated, but not the density of e.g. the 1989 Palmer. Quite good body. Medium-plus length. Still relatively grapey. Less earth, more nuance with airing. Faintly metallic/steely. Tightening up later that night, yet showing its age; then rather fruitier and more harmonious again the following day, showing nice vinosity and smoothness, albeit not the purity of a modern vintage. Rating: 91-
Vietti Barolo Riserva Villero 1996
Thanks to Remo. Another wine I have had numerous times, liked since release, and may have underrated – but then, it is from one of my favourite Barolo vintages of all times. Lightly plummy ruby-black. Asphalt-like and petrolly licorice. Tarry marzipan, faint oak, if still noticeable at this stage. Dried rose petal, some dried rose hip. Good body. Closed, youthful. Good vinosity. Potential for great sweetness, I believe. Concentrated, firmly tannic, if not typically hard 1996 – in a good way. Promising! Rating: 93++/~96?
Kracher Welschriesling Trockenbeerenauslese #4 “Zwischen den Seen” 2000
Thanks to Remo. 11% alcohol, 212.4 grams residual sugar per liter, and 7.3 grams per liter total acidity. Lightly waxy amber-golden colour. Dusty botrytis and a touch of bee’s wax. Sweet and fat but high-acid. Quite viscous, bit oily. Tiny bitter note. Note the ultimate in freshness, in particular not the fruit. Tiny red berry top note to lightly tropical acacia honey, baked pineapple and green tea powder. Balanced enough, but not really harmonious, and I would not bet it ever will be. Medium-plus length. All in all a bit nondescript. Rating: 89-/88
Greetings from Switzerland, David.
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„J'ai gâché vingt ans de mes plus belles années au billard. Si c'était à refaire, je recommencerais.“ – Roger Conti