(WTN?) Revelations of preference

The last couple of weeks have revealed things to me that became more evident as the time went on, and that some (including myself, depending on the day and phase of the moon) will either agree with or disagree with: that with the exception of aglianico-based wines, I think I prefer my Italians to be younger and my French to be older when drinking them.
This was brought home with a Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva 2000 that I adored when I first had it around 2005 or so. This second bottle took time to reveal itself and what it did reveal was less fruit and more savory, green tobacco, alfalfa, medicinal flavors. I still enjoyed it, settling on an 'A-' , but some of the overt freshness and vibrancy that I enjoyed so much earlier was missing and I thought the wine suffered slightly because of it. Also, I popped open a G. Mascarello Barbera d'Alba 'Codana' 2004 that showed stewy and tomato-ey, cherries resting in neutral alcohol and hibiscus fruit on the finish. Likewise to the Bea, I drank this over the next couple of days and it grew on me, but that initial shock of the fruit tasting so old threw me off. Of course, it is barbera, so maybe the comparison is unfair to wines that are meant to be aged more, but still, only 7 years old?

Compare these two examples to a 2004 Chateau Grillet tasted within the same time frame. This still had a greenish-cast to it's bright yellow color, with a restrained nose of tropical fruits (durian, guananbana) custard, finishing with no flab and nicely bitter carob-almond finish. I greatly enjoyed this, especially since the last few viognier-based wines I 've had have been a little over-the-top. I also had a Serafin Gevery Chambertin les Corbeaux 2001 that still showed youthful, even with the caramelly oak remaining on the dark-fruited finish. This is in a good drinking spot right now, but could hold indefinately.

Obviously, a small sample and comparison, and like I said, watch me change my opinion with the next great 25-year old example of a Brunello or a 2007 Burgundy that I think requires drinking up. Just thought I would share my observations.

[David M. Bueker]

Interesting observation. I might venture to say that wines with a more acidic backbone appeal to you in their younger state...a generality which is usually dangerous.

Hi Mark -

Thanks for the informative notes. In my experience, G. Mascarello has some cork issues, as three of the four bottles of theirs that I have sampled have been either corked, or somehow way off like yours was. Although the one other wine that I had from them was in fact quite good, this is one producer who I will not be buying from.

Surprised about the Bea, though - I have had nothing but positive experiences with his wines, as well as the Monastero Suore Cistercensi Coenobium Rusticum that Bea's son makes.