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BTN: Belgian pales at the Jug Shop

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Keith M

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BTN: Belgian pales at the Jug Shop

by Keith M » Tue May 17, 2011 8:17 pm

It sure is lovely to have a Friday afternoon off from work, as a lengthy tour of the Bay Area's public transport scene eventially delivers me to the Jug Shop in San Francisco for their legendary weekly beer tasting guided by Eric, Certified Cicerone and general expert in all things beer. This week's theme was Belgian pale ales and interpretations thereof, with a few others thrown in for fun.

Started off with a rare treat for me, an Italian beer from a town in Latium, about 70 kilometers northeast of Rome. The Birra del Borgo Re Ale Extra is categorized as an IPA, but the rich malty and earthy nose wouldn't have led me there. In any case, delicious rich interpretation, very textured and very interesting. From Cooperstown in New York, the Ommegang BPA was all bright and citrusy on the nose, a very proper introduction to Belgian pale ales as a style. Creamy, bright, orangey citrus, this was lovely and one of my favorites of the tasting. The Russian River Damnation from Santa Rosa in northern California seemed different from my previous experience with this beer (and of the experiences of my fellow tasters). Didn't catch the batch number on this one, but the rich, hi-toned sweetness and tang seem to lean much more in the direction of a tripel than a pale ale. I often find this beer best enjoyed as a slow sipper, but this particular batch just felt a bit too bright for my preferences.

Following on the theme of batch variation, my fellow tasters informed me that the Bruery TradeWinds from Placentia in southern California varies quite a bit from last year's version. Brewed with rice and Thai basil, I found this one very creamy, but the flavors really don't meld and seem to fight each other. Tasty enough, I wish it were more integrated. The Lost Abbey Inferno from San Marcos in southern California, however, was the easiest of sells. Lovely, it tasted like a whole dinner party with a theme of citrus, light presence. Clouds with the flavors of a banquet, or so my notes say. It was lovely. Hopping to the Belgian province of Luxembourg, La Chouffe struck me as incredibly rich, especially after the Inferno. Graham crackers spread with marmalade rich. The richness didn't seemed balanced by something I wanted in the finish to make it lipsmacking. Plenty of sugar and honey, though. Ye olde Duvel from the Belgian province of Antwerpen was quite refreshing afterwards. Heavily spiced, bright, floral, citrusy, quick attack of herbal/meat flavors, then quickly gone. Liked this one for its cleanness. Hopping over to East Flanders in Belgium for the unforgettably-packaged Delirium Tremens from Huyghe. Vibrant watermelon and peaches, bright, sharp and fun. Very likeable indeed. Out of style the Mikkeller/De Struisse RateBeer, produced at Deca in East Flanders, was amazing. The nose is undoubtedly over-the-top rich, but the grainy/barleywine/almost roasted ryelike character achieve amazing complexity on my tongue. Light and clean while being ridiculously rich. Phenomenal. From De Landtsheer in East Flanders, a brewer I don't know as well as I should, the Malheur 10° was all about orange liqueur. Too bright and candied for my tastes at the moment, I wonder if time or air would make it more accessible to my preferences. Back to southern California for some AleSmith Horny Devil. The nose is like grilling, but no smoke! Reminds me of salt, pepper, lemon and lime. Maybe before I head outside to grill! Sure some palate fatigue is setting in, but I found its bright citrusy expressiveness quite refreshing while something underneath that reminded me of cement seemed to provide focus. This was a fun beer. Would love to revisit.

Finally, at the end of the table was a magnum of Piraat Ale from Van Steenberge in East Flanders. Nothing like my previous exposure to Piraat, it was heavy, rich, spiced winter fruit. Candy and a partially fermented feel that made Eric seek out a regularly size new bottle (the magnum was about 2.5 years old and Eric suspected the additional sugar added upon bottling had never been completely consumed after bottle conditioning). Indeed the regular Piraat Ale was more in line with my recollection, bright chipper and herbal, crunchy and, frankly, a bit challenging on my palate. Nothing like the magnum. But, what's done is done, and that was quite a tour of Belgian pales. Can't wait for my next Friday off!
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Carl Eppig

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Re: BTN: Belgian pales at the Jug Shop

by Carl Eppig » Tue May 17, 2011 9:24 pm

Keith, on one of your trips east you must go by Ommegang for a tour. Fastingating. More interesting than the museum(s) in town. Yes folks in addition to b-ball there is also a Farmer's Museum and a museum for the guy the town is named after.
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Re: BTN: Belgian pales at the Jug Shop

by Keith M » Wed May 18, 2011 5:01 am

Indeed, Carl, Ommegang just keeps climbing higher and higher on my list for a visit. Thanks for the tip. I hope to visit some breweries more in your neck of the woods (Allagash, Smuttynose) this summer, if I can work out the logistics.
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Re: BTN: Belgian pales at the Jug Shop

by Carl Eppig » Wed May 18, 2011 12:22 pm

Keith M wrote:Indeed, Carl, Ommegang just keeps climbing higher and higher on my list for a visit. Thanks for the tip. I hope to visit some breweries more in your neck of the woods (Allagash, Smuttynose) this summer, if I can work out the logistics.


There is quite a difference viz-a-viz localle. Ommegang is in a castle. Smuttynose is in an industrial park. Allagash is in the commercial part of Portland. Both worth the visit though. If in Portland, visit Shipyard too, whether you like it or not. If you can talk to the pres there, he will tell you about the yeast he brought over from England that permeates much of the brew in these parts. We live forty five minutes from Smuttnose, and an hour and a quarter from Allagash.

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