WTN: The 2nd Greatest dry Muscat in Germany and the World?

2008 Weingut Friedrich Becker ‚Schweigener‘ Muskateller Qualitätswein–Pfalz, Germany 11,0% alc.

On Sunday I took the team Hooper to Wissembourg in Alsace for the afternoon. We had the strangest weather that I’ve seen in a while when every fifteen minutes it alternated between cold, windy, thunderstorms and burning-hot sunshine. Some hail got thrown around further east towards the Rhein plain, but without much damage to speak of. I took the opportunity to run around the Schweigener Kammerberg, one of Germanys Großes Gewächs vineyards that actually lie on the French side of the border -a relic from when Alsace (Elsaß) was in German hands. Friedrich Becker grows some of the greatest Pinot Noir in the Pfalz (or in Alsace) from parcels here, and though the rows aren’t marked, I bet you could find his if you tried given the obvious nurture provided to the vines. Even if you don’t, the beautiful view over Wissembourg and the Black Forest beyond is well worth the effort.

So today with Becker on my brain, but with weather too warm for Pinot Noir, Muskateller was really the only choice. If you are familiar with Gelber Muskateller a la Müller-Catoir, then you are familiar with my favorite dry Muscat and arguably one of the Worlds greatest. But it is a specialty of Becker as well, the cult-status of which may be even stronger than that of M-C.

I won’t even attempt to describe the aromas and flavors of good Muscat. Neither the English nor the German languages contain adequate adjectives and I would fall laughably short of the mark. I will only say that the Becker smells more of heady, pungent mid-summer flowers than the delicate, crisp aromas of the Müller-Catoir spring garden. It is more luscious than the M-C, a touch sweeter and with that has a greater depth of fruit and slightly less acidity (really than any of the ’08, ’09, or ’10.) What it gains in depth, it sacrifices in vigor and length but to be honest, a tasting note on either of these two wines is vulgar, pedantic bullshit. They are treasures of the wine-world and should be held above such scrutiny -so disregard everything I’ve written.

Cheers,
Bill

[b] a tasting note on either of these two wines is vulgar, pedantic bullshit. They are treasures of the wine-world and should be held above such scrutiny -so disregard everything I’ve written.

Cheers,
Bill

This makes me want to drink this wine.

On some searching it seems like it does not make it to this side of the Pond.

The only Muskateller I've had was in South Styria where it is all over the place. Excellent examples can be had at reasonable prices. Somebody's got to import this stuff!

[David M. Bueker]

Terry Theise brings in Austrian Muscat/Muskateller from a few of that country's wine regions. He also brings in Muskateller from a few producers in Germany, though Becker is not in his German portfolio.

Wiest brings in Becker - though I think he focuses more on the reds.

And I do need more Austrian Muskateller - though I'm partial to a little bit of residual sugar, after an unreal bottle of Brundlmayer's Dezemberlese some time ago.

So another hot day in the Pfalz and another Muskateller. This time I walked into a wine shop and headed straight for the M-C, but was clipped from behind by the salesperson and forced completely against my will to try yet another. This time it was 2009 Bergdolt-Reif & Nett, and Nice it was, though with more restrained aromas and it was a bit juicier and more broad so I ended up going with the M-C anyway.

As for Austria, I have always liked Heidi Schröck Muscat (and just about everything else she makes), though it is a blend of Gelber Muskateller, Muscat-Ottonel and Muscat-Sylvaner (which is actually Sauvignon Blanc), so it might have to be DQ'd for the purists, but it is tasty nevertheless. I've never had the Bründlmayer, but it sounds interesting (and speaking of Bründlemayer: tried any Brut Rose lately? Wow!)

Cheers,
Bill

Hi Bill -

Thank you for the notes. I have never seen any of the Becker whites to try, but this Muskateller sounds exciting.

Agree with you about Heidi Schröck - I am also a fan of her wines, including her blended Muscat. Schwarzböck, an up and coming producer in Wienviertel, also makes a really nice dry Muskateller.

Don't forget the dry Moscato Giallo/Gelbermuskateller (sp?) from the Alto Adige, also bone dry and with Sauvignon acidity. Some very good examples out there.

I love Schroeck's wine.

Hi Oliver,

I thought that Moscato Gialla was Goldmuskateller, in which case I have had an Italian one (Labelled Goldmuskateller and not Moscato Gialla) years ago. Is Gelbermuskateller also prevalent in Südtirol? In Germany the two are often confused (even by nursuries.) Also, could you recommend a good producer or two of either Gold or Gelber? I'd love to try a good one.

Cheers,
Bill