2002 Huët Vouvray Pétillant Brut
Really lovely; fresh Chenin fruit combined with a savoury doughiness and toasty elements in a seamless, understated package that conveys flavour with a remarkable lightness of touch. Still very youthful, I'll keep my hands off others for some time.
2005 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc l'Ermite
Full bodied and viscous with a slightly oily texture, combining ripe peach and apricot fruits with honeycomb, candle wax and slightly nutty flavours - certainly tasty, but there's a sense of heaviness here that makes it hard to drink more than a glass or two, and it's rather anonymous.
2009 Domaine des Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) Beaujolais Cuvée l'Ancien Vieilles Vignes
This isn't about nuance or complexity - just waves of pure, exuberant berried Gamay fruit with a sensation of incredible refreshment. Really easy to drink, very fruit-forward and open now, and there to be drunk while waiting for the bigger '09 Bruns to come around.
1999 Ridge Monte Bello
Starts out rather woody and four-square. Three hours in a decanter transform it completely as the wood integrates and this unravels to show layers of ripe red and dark fruited flavours seasoned with spices, cocoa and cedar. The flavours are still very primary but there's a sense of polish and purity here that makes it very enjoyable to drink, and the structure isn't overbearing with fine-grained tannins and impressive acidity. Very impressive right now, but this has the stuffing, balance and structure to be really great with time.
2003 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve
Remarkably pure and fresh for an '03 CdP. It's all about bright red fruited flavours with accents of pepper, earth and coffee, showing none of the overripe fruit or roasted elements I've found in so many other '03 or other modern CdPs. Though with some air the alcohol does start to stick out and makes it less enjoyable to drink.
