Chenin Blanc: It doesn’t seem to get the respect it so richly deserves as one of the world’s classic varieties. Dedicated producers of Chenin Blanc (primarily in the Loire Valley of France, with faithful adherents to the grape in South Africa and the west coast of the U.S.A.) would like it to be more popular and perhaps a bit more pricey, but the small and devoted contingents of Chenin Blanc lovers aren’t in any hurry to see their beloved cult grape get any more attention than it does now. They would much rather have it remain “theirs”, partly because it’s a love thing and partly because it keeps the prices down to moderate levels.
It’s not that Chenin Blanc isn’t widespread; it is grown all over the world, and chances are if there is a thriving wine industry anywhere they have at least dabbled in Chenin Blanc. But in the majority of those areas Chenin seems to be prolific in producing volume, but not in producing outstanding quality. And it is only in the Loire Valley region, really, that Chenin Blanc reaches its considerable potential.
Perhaps it is the warm and moist growing climate of the valley that’s responsible. Or the particular arrangement of soils. Or perhaps the traditions of growing and winemaking over hundreds of years have a bit to do with it. Suspect it may be all of those. Whatever the reasons, there is no place else quite as focused on Chenin Blanc as a primary variety, and no place else that achieves the astonishing style and quality, as the Loire.
Two areas consistently excel with Chenin Blanc: Vouvray and Savennières.
Savennières is a small AOC devoted exclusively to Chenin Blanc as a bone dry, nervy, intensely aromatic white. Vouvray, however, plays with all styles, from Chenin Sec, to lightly sweet Demi-Sec, to a mellow, rich Moulleux (meaning marrow, betokening the soft, richly sweet silky fatness of this style), to unctuously sweet, honey-rich, incredibly complex and long-lived sweet wines.
Whether dry or sweet, Chenin Blanc from the central Loire is wonderfully aromatic, often showing scents of honey and nuts and fruits, usually melon but as often pear and apple and quince as well, and is tense and nervy with acidity and minerality both.
Here’s a prime example of affordable, elegant, aromatic and earthy Chenin Blanc:
Catherine & Pierre Breton Vouvray Chenin Sec “La Dilettante” 2009, Loire Valley
Catherine and Pierre Breton are considered ‘the young set’ amongst winemakers in the Loire…although they’d possibly disagree with the ‘young’ part after a long day spent toiling in the vineyards…and they’re establishing themselves as thoughtful, perceptive, dedicated talents from a distinguished and well-establlshed family and estate producing exceptional wines from the central Loire, especially the red wines of Cabernet Franc, for which this region is justly renowned.
But Catherine---who styles herself as ‘the dilettante’---also has a discernible passion for great Chenin Blanc as well, as she “dabbles” with the family’s Vouvray offerings. There’s many a winemaker, and avid consumer, wishes they could dabble this well; and I doubt any dilettante has every worked so hard to make a dream come true.
On one hand, the Vouvray Sec 2009 is a modestly priced bottle of Chenin Blanc that does yeoman service during a meal. On the other hand, it is arguably a tremendous bargain as a well crafted, delectable white wine that admirably serves as most wines can’t: a companion throughout an entire meal of multiple courses.
During a recent dinner at Tabla Bistro in Portland, OR, the Vouvray was a perfect accompaniment for several splendid dishes. First, it was ideal with the Fresh Cured Coho Salmon with horseradish, herbed potatoes, and pickled cucumbers, supporting and accentuating the flavors of the dish with ease.
Then the natural vivacity of the wine emerged with a salad studded with pickled beets and rhubarb (!), showing good minerality and solid emerging fruit.
A ‘farm pasta’ course of light-as-a-feather ravioloni stuffed with a poached farm-fresh egg all runny and yellow, and even fresher home-made ricotta, and covered in shredded parmigiano and olive oil and herbs didn’t even challenge the wine: it met and married it in lovely harmony, with the acidity and fruit of the wine acting as a support for the egg and pasta, then playing counterpoint to that richness with sweet and sour contrast to liven up the mouth for another bite.
Next up was a sous vide then lightly sautéed sea bass on a bed of Israeli couscous and fresh tomato. Vouvray is acknowledged as perfect with the local Loire river fish; it’s just as adept a companion with ocean fish, cleaning up the palate after each bite and letting the sweet mingling flavors of sea bass, butter, and tomato shine through.
As if that weren’t enough, the Vouvray Sec then went up against cheese, a formidable challenge which often shows weaknesses and flaws in lesser wines. No challenge here. With the bright, tangy flavors of the goat cheese from Italy (and again a bit of pickled rhubarb which contrasted with the cheese and married beautifully with the complaisant wine) the Vouvray Sec was an amiable and friendly companion.
There are few wines that can be that versatile throughout an entire meal and still maintain their natural character and unique style. The Catherine & Pierre Breton Vouvray Sec “La Dilettante” does it with surpassing ease. Quite an accomplishment for a ‘modestly priced bottle of Chenin Blanc.’
(I'll always have a soft spot in my heart for Moulin du Touchais though, since that was my very first exploration into the splendors of the dessert-styled Chenin of the Loire, and with a thirty year old version at that. Doors opened. Vistas appeared.