by Ryan M » Fri May 13, 2011 8:29 am
Although I won't defend my dissertation until August and so won't official have my Ph.D. until then, last Friday I went to Commencement and got hooded, and with my parents and in-laws in town for the event, we did not pass the chance to party afterwards. Adding to the festivities, the day before was my mom's birthday, and so we had a nice dinner for her. A really special weekend, and quite the nice lineup of wines, including one of the greatest and most special wine I've ever had, although it was unplanned, and almost a disaster - but more about that below.
With mom's birthday dinner the night before:
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Riesling Kabinett, Josephshofer Monopol, Mosel 2001
From my cellar. Golden yellow with perhaps a hint of green. Nose good, but low-key. Pear, peach, citrus rind, a suggestion of tropical fruits, honey/nectar, and mineral, with hints of roses and petrol emerging as it opens. Medium-light in body, excellent acidity, the whole having a sense of precision and class. Impressively youthful structure still. Compared to my last tasting (5 years before), the primary fruits have pulled back a bit, but its only beginning to show its mature notes. The balance is so good that this can certainly go another 5 - 10 years. Wish I had more. *** [5/5/11]
Tiziano, Oro, Chianti Classico 2003
Dark ruby with a hint of brown showing. Really nice nose of dark fruit, autumnal notes, and earth. Dark cherry, blackberry, and plum, all with a dark, dense character, with a hint of plum tomato and orange rind, a suggestion of violets, generous forest floor notes, tobacco, and earth. As it opens, becoming gamey as well. Medium-full bodied, with tight and aggressive structure when first openned, actually requiring brief decanting. A Chianti with beautiful grace, dense ripe fruit, and solid structure. Almost Burgundian, and stands comfortably next to some Brunelli. Best Chianti I've had. Can go another 5 years, depending on your preferences. *** [5/5/11]
And after quite the grand ceremony, quite the grand party:
Cakebread, Chardonnay, Reserve, Carneros 2007
Medium yellow. Excellent nose. Lemon, pinapple/butterscotch, and generous, spicy oak. Full bodied, fairly-well structured, and perhaps just the slightess bit of tightness showing. This is your archtypical ripe, buttery, oaky California Chardonnay, but the fruit density and structure keep everything in pretty good balance. I don't usually like this style, but I like the wine a lot. Should age pretty nicely over the next 5 years or more. *** [5/6/11]
Chateau Malmaison, Moulis 2005
Impressions as compared to two years ago rather than detailed notes here. Decanted about two hours. Great color, so purple it's pratically black. Wonderful nose of dark fruit immeadiately upon openning. Delicious dark fruits, a nice 2005 sense of tone and flesh, and perhaps just a bit of more classical harmony showing. Fully consistent with previous. Approachable now with decanting, but really needs another 5 years, and should last for 10 years after that. *** [5/6/11]
Roederer Estate, L'Ermitage, Brut, Anderson Valley 2002
Light golden yellow / straw. Very good nose. Green apple, pear, and peach with loads of bread crust and macadamia nut on a good finish. Excellent depth and class, and dare I say it compares favorably with some vintage Champagnes. Certainly the best non-Champagne sparkler I've had, and a great value compared to NV Champagne. Can probably age another 5 - 10 years. Quite a treat! **** [5/6/11]
And now, the special, but very unexpected, and for a few moments heartbreaking treat. My dear brother asked me if there was something special he could get me as a graduation gift, so I made a suggestion, with some less extravagant alternatives. So after dinner he hands me the gift bag, and I feel a half bottle inside . . . . a '96 d'Yquem! I set it down on a counter next to me so I can get it out of the bag . . . . and the bag topples to the floor. For a few brief moments I have hope - we've all discovered that wine bottles are sturdier than you expect, and this was padded at least a bit - so a lift up the bag, and feel the crushed bottle inside. I was in such a state of shock that I did not have the presence of mind to try to salvage it, but fortunately my brother's fiancee rushed in, got a cup, and went to work. I was very nearly in tears - not just because I had (by accidental fluke) broken a d'Yquem, but because it was such a extravagant gift. A bit later I recovered and went to work filtering the wine through coffee filters to remove the glass. That gift bag turned out to be a remarkable water-tight life saver, as we only lost 2.5 ounces. So, after giving it some time to chill, we drank it. And my brother revealed that he had actually gotten me two bottles (the other thankfully safe)! One to drink and one to keep, and although none of us hear would ever want to "open" a bottle this way, it made the day eve more special. My only regret, considering the circumstances, is that I didn't at least save it for the next day, so I could have had more of it to myself (selfish, yes, I know, but do you blame me), but it was nice to share it with family and close friends, and I discovered that even my mother-in-law, who hardly ever drinks, appreciated that d'Yquem is something special. And without further adieu:
Chateau d'Yquem, Sauternes 1996
My first d'Yquem!!! Golden, heading towards bronze. Phenomenal nose!!! Such sweet richness, such depth, such polish . . . . such an entrancing nose that you can spend a good while without needing to even taste it. The nose reflects the palate: red raspberry, peach, apricot, honey, beeswax, and barley sugar, all with a whiff of mature fruitcake-like notes. Full bodied, viscously rich, structured, and yet sits relatively lightly on the palate due to its superb balance and elegance. Such richness, such polish, such quality! There is little more you could ask of this wine. This is only beginning to hint at maturity, and in some ways is still young, with a touch of grip and tightness on the finish. As tremendous as it is now, it will get even better . . . . it may be perfection when mature. This is one of the greatest wines I have ever tasted. This probably needs another 10 years to reach maturity, and will age effortlessly for 20 years after that . . . . and given that it is d'Yquem, probably even longer. A very special wine, a very special experience. ***** [5/6/11]
"The sun, with all those planets revolving about it and dependent on it, can still ripen a bunch of grapes as if it had nothing else to do"
Galileo Galilei
(avatar: me next to the WIYN 3.5 meter telescope at Kitt Peak National Observatory)