WTN: How do you rate Bürklin-Wolf as a producer?

I raise this question following an encounter with an acquaintance at last weekend’s tasting. He is a great lover of Zind-Humbrecht’s wine and Wagner’s music, the latter of which inspires me with confidence in his taste. He voiced disappointment with the wines on show and, when I mentioned Bürklin-Wolf, he retorted “their wines have no length and class and come out of the bottom drawer of German producers”. I did not get a very clear answer as to who represented the “top drawer” but if this reliable, if not always inspired, producer is “bottom drawer”……..

Here is my view based on the wines on show and a couple drunk at home.

The wines were presented by friendly Englishman, Tom Benns, who had already looked after us when we visited the estate in 1999, I think. (I couldn’t help thinking that his English has developed a hint of German intonation and wonder if people find a Walloon hint in mine after more than 40 years in Belgium.)

The grapes are grown nowadays by biodynamic methods. Here were the wines on show.

Riesling trocken 2009 (€10) showed generous aromatics and nice crisp acidity; 15/20.
Wachenheimer Riesling 2009 (€12) showed a definite step up with greater fullness and focus, lively acidity and nice spicy and mineral touches; 15.5/20++.
Riesling 1er cru Gerümpel 2009 (€18) continued the progression with the same allied to greater fullness and complexity; 16/20 with potential.

And now here is further evidence that Bürklin-Wolf is far from “bottom drawer” in form of two mature bottles drunk at home with time to reflect and to know them better.

Gaisböhl 2001 (Ruppertsberger Gaisböhl Riesling trocken Qualitätswein 34) – Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf – Alc.12.5% - was served at cellar temperature (c.11°C) with the traditional cold lobster. In character it was quite similar to the Weinbach Schlossberg noted above – rich in a Smaragd style with dark flavours but perhaps with a touch more primary fruit, livelier acidity but also more sugar than the Weinbach. IMO too rich at cellar temperature and not dry enough for the cold lobster but much livelier, less heavy and more fragrant (and more to my taste) two days later straight from the fridge; 16/20+ (Dec 31, 2010)

Pechstein Forst (Forster Pechstein Riesling Spätlese trocken 33-98) 1997 – Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf – Alc. 13%

C: Light straw yellow
N: Quite restrained fragrant white flowers and minerals
P: The noticeable RS which I recall from earlier bottles seems to have been absorbed leaving a fragrantly crisp, quite robustly bodied and structured palate with more minerality and fresh acidity but less opulence than I was expecting from this warm year and just a hint of drying out towards the finish; a classy Riesling; 16/20+. (Nov 06, 2008)

[David M. Bueker]

Burklin-Wolf is a very high quality producer, though their dry wines have been surpassed in recent years as the whole "trocken movement" has gained strength.

They have great sites. They should do better.

Bürklin-Wolf is undoubtedly one of the iconic producers in Germany. They have a rich history, some of the greatest vineyard holdings in the Pfalz, and have actually been quite innovative for a winery of their size. They have forged their own classification system which somewhat mirrors that of Burgundy with Village wines, Premier Cru and Grosses Gewächs –a system that I really like; they have converted their vineyards to Biodynamic which was kind of a ‘green light’ for other producers in the country; and they were one of the founders of the modern dry-wine movement in the Pfalz and greater Germany. All three very progressive initiatives for such a traditional estate with a lot of wine to sell. Bürklin-Wolf is the largest of the 3-B producers with around 600,000 bottles produced yearly from about 90 ha. The wines are classic if not always ‘exciting’, but very well made. I kind of put Bürklin-Wolf into the same boat as Schloß Johannisberg for what they mean to Germany and German wine and the equivalent of say a Bouchard Pere et Fils, Drouhin, or Guigal which I think is high praise.

Cheers,
Bill

Burklin-Wolf is a very high quality producer, though their dry wines have been surpassed in recent years as the whole "trocken movement" has gained strength.

They have great sites. They should do better.

I kind of put Bürklin-Wolf into the same boat as Schloß Johannisberg for what they mean to Germany and German wine and the equivalent of say a Bouchard Pere et Fils, Drouhin, or Guigal which I think is high praise.

Cheers,
Bill

Thanks for your insights.

I agree about "should do better". The Gaisbôhl and Pechstein were good wines but should IMO have been more than that, particularly the Gaisböhl from 2001 of stellar reputation; maybe it is just not in the right place at present and I have one or two bottles left to see how it performs down the road.

When I started out in wine, the three Bs dominated with Pfalz and Bürklin-Wolf's were the most widely available; I remember several fine bottles opened in the 60s, 70s and 80s. Bassermann-Jordan and von Buhl seem to be sliding off radar screens but Bûrklin-Wolf is still firmly up there. I like the Bouchard P&F, etc. comparison. These are IMO good reliable wines from fine terroirs but lacking the genius of wines from, say, Dönnhoff, Müller, Prüm and von Schubert, at his best.

[David M. Bueker]

Tim,

2001 was not a stellar Pfalz year. Despite the vintage's reputation, quality was a bit spotty outside of the middle Mosel and Nahe.

Hi Tim,

Yours are interesting comments. I get the sense that Bassermann and Buhl are more widely distributed in the US than Bürklin, though I have no first-hand knowledge about other European markets nor of those in Asia (though von Buhl is purportedly very strong in the latter.) Locally, one can hardly visit a restaurant or wine-shop without one or two and often all three of them being represented (maybe a slight exaggeration, but not much) and I get the chance to taste them pretty regularly albeit far from completely or comprehensively. Bassermann is probably my personal favorite across the board followed by Bürklin and Buhl, though all three make very good wine (I’d go Bouchard P&F, Drouhin, Jadot in Burgundy, FWIW.) Though when I think of the greatest estates in the Mittelhaardt, Müller-Catoir, Koehler-Ruprecht (if you have a liberal definition of the Mittelhaardt), and Christmann lead the way with Mosbacher, Pfeffingen, and maybe Von Winning/Dr.Deinhard mixed in there with the 3Bs. But the most ‘exciting’ producers to me (besides M-C) are located to the north and south of the Neustadt-Bad Dürkheim circle, though not always for Riesling.

Cheers,
Bill

Hi Bill - I've seen both Burklin-Wolf and von Buhl represented well around Asia (and I've seen them more often in Singapore or Hong Kong than I've seen in NYC/Chicago/the secondary markets in the US). Have not seen any of Burklin-Wolf's recent wines in the US, though I've had the chance to try a couple of their old Auslesen/Spatlesen from 1971 and 1976, and the wines have been very impressive. (Not as big a fan of von Buhl from my brief experiences - I've found both the sweet and dry wines a little big and severe, without the finesse and elegance I look for in Riesling.)

As for the other producers you mention - it's a shame Koehler-Ruprecht is no longer being sold in the US, as I found the wines quite compelling and unique. Messmer is another producer I'm keeping an eye on - I've been a big fan of some of his recent bottlings, and have been quite intrigued by his Muskateller and Weissburgunders. Keep hearing great things about his Rieslaners too, but don't seem to come across any (even though Terry Theise brings them in).

Hi Salil,

I agree re: Meßmer. I have this sense that they are thought of as a ‘good-value’ producer in the US, while here he is a bonafide Superstar (you won’t be surprised to hear about the petty jealousies that arise when Meßmer is mentioned. I suppose that success has its price, but it pisses me off just the same.) The high-end bottlings are really what they do best though, and every Riesling lover should appreciate the Schäwer vineyard and what it does for our grape. As you mentioned, Meßmer is also among the Weißburgunder elite (and I’ll add Spätburgunder too.) I’ve never tasted the Rieslaner either, but maybe I’ll soon order a bottle.

Cheers,
Bill