A visit by an old friend has been an excuse to open some good mature bottles. Referring to my posts in the "Other PN" WF, I cannot see the Menetou-Salon cuvées on which I wrote ever approaching the depth and complexity of this Pommard; on the other hand, I would rate the Ambonnay Coteaux Champenois as more perfect in a lighter vein.
Pommard 1er cru Clos des Epeneaux 1997 – Domaine du Comte Armand. 1997 was an uneven vintage in Burgundy which has given me some severe disappointments but this Pommard was one of the good ones. The nose was expressive with ripe pinot fruit showing the usual cherry notes as well as some secondary development including forest floor notes. The palate was medium bodied playing variations on the aromas from the nose with good complexity and depth, a silky texture, smooth acidity and resolved tannins with enough firmness to support the finish. At its peak or even a bit beyond it, I think, but much better than the 1994 which I drank recently and highly enjoyable right now; 16.5/20++.
Meursault 1997 – Domaine Jean-François Coche-Dury showed roundness and depth with quite richly burnished white fruit and attractive minerality enhanced by smooth/lively acidity but seemed somewhat less lively and disjoined compared with my memory of the excellent 1996; barely 16/20.
Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Beerenauslese – 27 - 1995 – Weingut Keller, Rheinhessen – Alc.9% was absolutely lovely with its richly complex core of exotic fruit and spice laced with minerals being enhanced by crisp acidity. Not a suspicion of cloying so that I think that it could even accompany rich fish, poultry or white meat preparations as well as being perfect on its own after the meal; 17.5/20++.
Bourgueil “Buffet Froid” 2009 – Domaine de l’Oubliée – Alc.13% - (c.€6). I read in Cellar Tracker – “This was not good. Not varietally correct at all. Would have maybe guessed Spanish value wine or something rather anonymous like that.” I couldn’t disagree more. My bottle showed typical Loire CabFranc tangy fruit, a touch of charcoal, good acidity and that resinous touch on the finish which is often found in young Chinon and Bourgueil from gravelly sand. Eminently quaffable right now slightly chilled; 15/20+ QPR!.
(This estate has only been in operation for two years but the young owner, Xavier Courant, is enthusiastic and I guess that the wines will progress further. There is a more ambitious cuvée, Notre Histoire, for some ageing which is darker and more concentrated and tannic.)