2010 Müller-Catoir Haardt Scheurebe Kabinett Trocken 12,5% alc –Pfalz, Germany
Though I am usually a bigger fan of M-Cs Riesling, Muskateller, and Rieslaner, the Scheurebe Kabinett must be counted among the more anticipated releases for me, because when it’s on (like in 2009, which I hardly had words for), it is freakin’ lights out for every other dry Scheu that Germania, Europa, and the world has to offer. The 2010 is definitely tougher to get a read on this early. I drank it with mustard/horseradish braised Rabbit and baked white asparagus with stinging nettle Gouda (I used a Pfalz Semillon in the sauce*, but WTF else would you serve besides Scheu?)
This is never a wine to call-out right off the bat (and decant it if you have the time), but I was especially cautious of this 2010, year of the Tiger in that I tried three different glasses over the course of three hours. It is very highly perfumed this year and green at that. Aloe Vera, cilantro, lime zest, but behind it all there is a lusciousness that I wouldn’t have expected from this vintage. It isn’t cat-pissy, or grapefruity, or sauvignon blancy and it isn’t classically ripe tangerine or Schwarz Johannisbeeren. It is more peach and chartreuse with a little more bite and length than usual, but what a fascinating wine! It isn’t the 2009, but a couple of months should do her some good.
Cheers,
Bill
*2009 Weingut Moll Edenkobener Bergel Semillon Feinherb –totally reminiscent of Hunter Valley Semillon for me –Apple and lime fruit, good acidity, but a substantial, waxy mid-palate that fits somewhere between Riesling and Pinot Blanc to my tastes.