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Paradise is in Burgundy ..

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Rainer from CH

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Paradise is in Burgundy ..

by Rainer from CH » Mon May 09, 2011 6:47 pm

How did I come to Burgundy? Thanks to friends like David who served me memorable bottles (e.g. 1988 Roumier Bonnes Mares Vieilles Vignes, 1993 Roty Charmes-Chambertin). What is special about it? It cannot be explained conclusively with words, you have to experience it yourself. To me, great Burgundies can have the most seductive perfume and the most subtle tannins of all the red wines from this planet. But perfect experiences with great Burgundies are so rare that almost religious patience is required to be prepared for the moment when it actually happens. - And it did happen on this magic evening on 30th April thanks to perfect bottles and excellent organisation. Great thanks to Yves Beck and his wife Dagmar for having made this possible! :D

Flight 1 (served half-blind):
1990 Echezeaux Grand Cru, Jean Grivot - Over the top, still interesting but not my taste.
1990 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, Comte de Voguë - Rich, robust and impressive Burgundy that improved considerably with airing and came across like a high-class Barbaresco. Not my taste (although I like high-class Barbaresco).
1990 Echezeaux Grand Cru, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti - Magical, indescribable scent of elderflowers, "griottes" cherries, wild raspberries, elderberries, beet root, green tea leaves, herbs, smoky wood of vines and pheasant meat. I spontaneously thought this had to be Burgundy's original given its completely natural taste. Nice sweet fruit on the palate, buffered by aromatic acidity and green tea like tannins. Improved with airing. Drink or hold. - My personel rating: 18.5/20.

Flight 2 (served half-blind):
1996 Echezeaux Grand Cru, Domaine A.-F. Gros - Nice but completely overshadowed by #2 and #3 in this flight.
1996 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Dugat Py - An absolute dream of a red Burgundy. It has all the magic virtues you can think of: sublime perfume of red and blue berries in a still reductive nose. Awesome freshness, richness, harmony and great concentration on the palate. Very very long on the finish. But still extremely young. Will this open up in the next 15 years or will it need even more time? - My personel rating: 19++/20 :shock:
1996 Richebourg Grand Cru, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti - Closed down and herbaceous in the nose. Showing great authenticity and beautiful balance but lacking concentration and sweet fruit. Difficult to predict its future. But given this domaine's impressive track record I would remain confident. - My personel rating: 18+/20.
1996 La Romanée Grand Cru, Bouchard Père & Fils - Nice but completely overshadowed by #2 and #3 in this flight.

Flight 3 (served half-blind):
2005 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru, Comtes de Voguë - I liked this very much but didn't take notes on it since I was still recovering from the gigantic Dugat Py :oops:
2005 Grand-Echezeaux Grand Cru, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti - Very very nice, but still an infant, difficult to assess actually. I loved its pure fruit reminiscent of wild blue berries. 18+/20.
2005 Morey St-Denis Bussières 1er Cru, Roumier - Still very young and dominated by sweet fruit and subtle oak in the nose. Rich and creamy on the palate, considerable share of oak induced tannins. Somehow lacking freshness and complexity in my view. Maybe I'm underestimating this: 17.5+/20.
2005 Chambertin Grand Cru, Nicolas Potel - Strange notes of botrytis (?) in the nose. Completely overshadowed by the other wines in this flight.

Flight 4 (served half-blind):
1999 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Lignier - This is the 2nd time I've encountered this beauty and I have to admit I have totally fallen in love with it. There is everything a truly great wine needs: loads of pure and luscious fruit, balanced by awesome acidity and tannins, crazy complexity and concentration, still so young - drug-like. Words cannot explain it. I just could easily drink a magnum of it on my own ;-) - My personel rating: 19.5+/20 :shock:
1999 Echezeaux Grand Cru, Domaine A.-F. Gros - I liked this very much but didn't take notes on it since I was still recovering from the gigantic Lignier :oops:
1999 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru, Bouchard Père et Fils - I liked this very much but didn't take notes on it since I was still recovering from the gigantic Lignier :oops:
1999 Romanée-St-Vivant Grand Cru, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti - Strange reductive nose, odor of medicine. Very interesting but also difficult to assess if you don't know this wine.

Cheers,
Rainer
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JC (NC)

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Re: Paradise is in Burgundy ..

by JC (NC) » Wed May 11, 2011 9:56 am

Wow! What a treat to try all those wines.
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Tim York

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Re: Paradise is in Burgundy ..

by Tim York » Wed May 11, 2011 12:08 pm

What an incredible line-up :!: Sounds as if the 99s are coming out of their shell; I've been holding off mine (less stellar than these) because of reports of a lot of still tight wines.
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Re: Paradise is in Burgundy ..

by Rainer from CH » Wed May 11, 2011 3:52 pm

JC (NC) wrote:Wow! What a treat to try all those wines.


It's both, enormous pleasure and hard work to explore/understand these extremely complex wines.
A premier grand cru from Bordeaux can appear simplistic in comparison.
Truly great wines can make you feel so small :wink:
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Rainer from CH

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Re: Paradise is in Burgundy ..

by Rainer from CH » Wed May 11, 2011 4:01 pm

Tim York wrote:What an incredible line-up :!: Sounds as if the 99s are coming out of their shell; I've been holding off mine (less stellar than these) because of reports of a lot of still tight wines.


The best 99s still might need another 10 years of bottle age to open up and show more (given good storage conditions).
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David M. Bueker

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Re: Paradise is in Burgundy ..

by David M. Bueker » Wed May 11, 2011 4:13 pm

I'm shocked those 2005s were not all totally shut down.
Decisions are made by those who show up
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Rainer from CH

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Re: Paradise is in Burgundy ..

by Rainer from CH » Wed May 11, 2011 4:19 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:I'm shocked those 2005s were not all totally shut down.


That surprised me too. And the fact that the taninns of the 2005s were softer than the tannins of the 1999s in this tasting.
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Michael K

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Re: Paradise is in Burgundy ..

by Michael K » Wed May 11, 2011 4:25 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:I'm shocked those 2005s were not all totally shut down.


+1 I've had a few village levels only to try and they certainly made me still stay away from the 1er crus and grand crus. Glad that you had a good experience with them
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Hoke

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Re: Paradise is in Burgundy ..

by Hoke » Wed May 11, 2011 4:55 pm

But so is Purgatory.
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Lou Kessler

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Re: Paradise is in Burgundy ..

by Lou Kessler » Wed May 11, 2011 9:06 pm

Great tasting I'm sure, with the different lineups you had.
Speaking of Burgundy we've got notice of certain 09 Burg pricing. The prices have really shot up, hard to know exactly where the market will be for them. We keep hearing that the Chinese are putting the pressure on the fine wine market. Many people had thought they were primarily name buyers and the majority of their purchases from Bordeaux. Somebody sure as hell is buying the top level of wines and not the American market from what we've heard. :? :(
What have you heard HOKE?
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Re: Paradise is in Burgundy ..

by Hoke » Wed May 11, 2011 9:09 pm

Lou Kessler wrote:Great tasting I'm sure, with the different lineups you had.
Speaking of Burgundy we've got notice of certain 09 Burg pricing. The prices have really shot up, hard to know exactly where the market will be for them. We keep hearing that the Chinese are putting the pressure on the fine wine market. Many people had thought they were primarily name buyers and the majority of their purchases from Bordeaux. Somebody sure as hell is buying the top level of wines and not the American market from what we've heard. :? :(
What have you heard HOKE?


Well, the International Export Sales Director for one of the big houses said they were doing landmark business in Asia---specifically China. No price resistance at all---and when you say "no price resistance" to a Frenchman, you see dollar signs...or Euros...or Yen...or whatever...flashing in his eyes. :lol:
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Re: Paradise is in Burgundy ..

by Michael K » Wed May 11, 2011 9:48 pm

............. i guess I'm just not rich enough any more....

I opened 1985 Groffier Clos de Beze a few weeks ago with two wine makers, an importer and a retailer and all remarked how nice that bottle was. We had a good time sipping and remembering when wines were made that way. It was a really nice bottle but I can't afford these new releases (at their $450+ price point) and now they seem to be going clear out of reach...... I understand that there are many great wines in the world now but even for a relative newbie, I'm finding the arguments of the recent seniors starting to be my reality.....

I never really cared when Bordeaux when sky high... I can find other wines elsewhere........but there is really less substitution for Burgundy.

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