Of recent memory:
Domaine du mas Blanc, Coullioure, 'les Piloums, 1996
Color a medium graciano red. Fragrant strawberry/raspberry fruit laced with lavander & thyme. Floral-washed squash blossom, worn strawberry-cherry aged in straw baskets. A slightly bitter chinato flavor on the finish. Heady, but good. And very smooth at the moment, but with enough tannin and structure to be able to revisit in a couple of years. B+
Petrolo, Toscana IGT, 'Torrione', 1998Dark cherry red colored. Mentholated vanilla-cherry Coke® on the nose. Tastes a bit thick and chunky, with concentrated cherry-plum puree, mint, and an oak-filled finish. Lots of stuffing, but feels one-dimensional. Could use 3-4 more years to knock off some of the monster tannic finish. B
Cantina Convento Muri Gries, Südtiroler, Lagrein Riserva, 1999
Black black-red. Boysenberry & grapes on the nose. Fresh red grapeskin and dusty cocoa-chocolate on the palate, along with dark blackberry with a slight bitter root finish. Like many lagreins: it feels good drinking, like you're at a picnic with friends, but I never find more complexity. Not sure if the riserva tariff is worth it (this is around $30). B+/A -
Foreau (Clos Naudin), Vouvray, moelleux, 1996 Brownish gold colored. Wet wool and smashed late-season apricots on the nose. Apricots, crystallized creme brulee sugar crust, apple-ginger herb tea, with a short finish. Would rather drink sooner than later. B
Kiralyudvar, Tokaji Furmint, 'Lapis', 1999 From Hungary. Color a medium-clear brown tinted gold. Very mature, muted nose of lemon-marzipan. Walnut meat and nut oil, lemon leaves, and dried straw-wrapped apricots. The inital impression here is one of sweetness, but finishes with a drying feeling on the finish. Some slight spicy gunflight on the end. Interesting, probably better paired with something instead of drinking alone as a desert wine. 12%