2010 Müller-Catoir Haardt Muskateller Kabinett Trocken –Pfalz, Germany 11,5% alc.
The Ivory white Asparagus (Spargel) has been rocking in the Pfalz for a month now. The weather has been astonishingly warm even for this southerly area of Germany and this has helped to speed up the Asparagus season by three or four weeks. This coincided with Bud-Break, which was also almost a month early. We’re not out of the woods yet for a late frost (and there were some very close calls two weeks ago), but the vineyards are pumping out green with canes already 4-6 inches long in some vineyards.
The almond, apple, and cherry blossoms are almost history, but the Spargel rolls on and the new 2010 vintage releases do too. I have been drinking an unholy amount of Silvaner this spring as it pairs tremendously well with white asparagus and ham, but for a truly divine food-pairing, there is no better match for Spargel than Dry Muscat which seems to focus the sweetness of the veg and the aroma of the wine like neither could dream of on their own. We had the last of the 2009 MC Muskateller with tonight’s dish of baked Spargel, ham, tomatoes and Gruyere two weeks ago in our enclosed garden among the flower blossoms and my brain could not tell where the flowers stopped and the wine began and I’m quite sure that I cannot conjure up a better description than that.
This 2010 seems to be in the same realm as it always is, and that is to say that it is again great. I am always surprised by how each vintage seems to have more vibrancy and acidity than the last, though this is usually true only because the newer vintage is simply fresher. This 2010 is another story. It is the longest version of this wine that I’ve tasted since 2004, and maybe the most classy too. It is not so outwardly out. The fruit is restrained, but the spice is sharper and deeper and with more pluck. Gorgeous.
Cheers,
Bill