We always serve spring lamb on Easter day and this time there remained enough for a further lamb dish later in the week. Many fine red wines drink well with lamb and this year I chose a Rioja and a St.Emilion both of which did the job very well.
Rioja Contino Reserva 1996 – Viñedos del Contino – Alc. 13.5% .
Colour was red of medium intensity with very little bricking. The nose showed hints of reduction at first but these dissipated quickly to reveal a delicious complex of round red sweet fruit with a lot of cherry and touches of liqueur, vanilla and cedar. The palate was velvety, harmonious and classically shaped with rich round fruit with perfectly judged nudges of smooth acidity and discreetly ripe tannic structure to give elegance and balance. Perhaps slightly less vibrant than my memory of a bottle a couple of years ago but still a lovely Rioja; 17/20.
Château Trottevielle - Saint-Emilion 1er grand cru classé - 1990 – Héritiers Castéja – Alc.13%; estate planted with Cabernet franc 45%, Merlot 50%, CabSauv 5%.
This estate was reputedly underperforming quite badly in the 70s and well into the 80s. On the narrow evidence, however, of this bottle which was rich and gracious drinking, if not absolutely outstanding, the “bad” period was over by 1990. The colour was showing some bricking and the nose, initially very charming with red plum and cherry notes, rapidly acquired a slightly metallic edge; both these factors suggest a wine on the downward slope. Happily this was less apparent on the round quite full bodied palate where the fruit, though darkening, remained sweetly expressive, the texture was smooth and the finish showed decent firmness. Ideally I would have appreciated more lively acidity and grip but this showed proper distinction for mature St.Emilion. I won’t wait long before drinking my remaining bottle; 16.5/20++
Between the two lamb dinners, we had a fish dinner with baby sole and mullet and I tried out a Mâcon from an unfamiliar producer.
Mâcon Cruzille - Clos des vignes du Mayne – 2009 – Julien Guillot – Alc. 12.5%, made from certified organically grown grapes. This crisply dry wine showed delicious focus and minerality with citrus tinged white fruit and just enough fat for balance. However, there was a slight rawness on the firm finish, particularly noticeable on the last glass after the fish, which detracted from perfection of a kind; 15.5/20++.