Eileen Hardy Chardonnay 2006 - Tasmania, Yarra Valley and Tumbarumba; 13% abv; 29€
According to the back label these are all cool climates, and the relatively low abv and the bright, citric character would indeed suggest that this is the case. The sheer weight would suggest otherwise. But perhaps the harsh, bitter oaking has provided an illusion of extreme weight that wouldn't otherwise be so manifest. I thought the trend in over-oaking should have been over? Why spoil such good material?

