2008 Rhys Pinot Noir Skyline Vineyard:
12.2% alcohol; from the label: 2.12 acres of mixed suitcase clones at 2,280’ to 2,375’ with a SE and SW aspect on a 20% to 35% slope in 2-4” of soil over limestone and Lorrenzzo shale yielding 1.24 tons per acre.
I barrel tasted this wine (or its component parts) several years ago and found it one of the more exotic noses and flavor profiles that I had ever gotten from pinot. And while it was rich, it was also svelte in the barrel.
Upon opening, the nose is akin to smelling a good vintage of Cros Parantoux; those vinous spice and earthy tones come through clearly and the fruit, while evident, is understated, savory and mostly dark.
Later in the evening, the nose would open to include more breath and complexity as well as to expand upon these initial elements.
In the mouth, it is medium weight, layered and structured with the same notes of spice and earth apparent on the nose. Initially, I would not describe it as concentrated or intense (although I believe it to be both) because the overall balance is so precise that no one part seems to draw undue attention.
With time, the palate becomes more expressive and the flavors take on nuance and dimension, the wine becomes denser and the finish reveals substantial but not drying, tannin. The finish is of medium length.
An extremely impressive and character driven wine in its infancy. I suspect as this ages, it will gain both complexity and length, as the tannins need time to resolve.
Certainly, of grand cru quality and utterly captivating.
Thanks, Jay and Paul.
Best, Jim
